[Bob Carriere]

Joel

If you look at Tony's picture you will see that he used a specail brass fitting easy to find at CarQuest or CTC..... it has a male pipe thread at one end to fit into the valve body.... the other side of the fitting is designed to take a 1/4 inch doubled flared steel brake line. The original assembly had 3 rubber lines going into and out of the valve body. This was done to deal with vibrations and body twist in severe driving conditions. I have found that Jeep 9 or 12 inch fuel lines fit perfectly..... I don't thing you need to go that far for a dependable running vehicle.

Can you post a picture of your valve body to show the back side where the nut and spring is located just want to make sure your assembly is complete.

It should clean up real nice using acetone or paint remover..... you can even shine it up with a cloth wheel and buffing compound.....when you take it apart you will find an internal tapered shaft..... if scratched or scored..... you can smear some valve griding compound on the tapered shaft.... use the fine stuff..... and insert the tapered stem and rotate by hand.... no need to fully re-assemble. once properly polished....clean thoroughly in gasoline.... re-assemble with a few drops of motor oil on the tapered shaft .... you need enough pressure on the spring at the bottom to keep it tight but loose enough to allow easy turning ... Fuel Filters are an essential part of a dependable system....

Color wise the whole underneath should be the same color as the overall shade of the truck. There are early WW II flat Olive drab green paint that very closely match what was initially applied at the Oshawa factory made by Gillespie number 34087 which I found to be a perfect match to the shade of OD green found under protected areas of my truck.

If you are thinking of camouflage colors with "Mickey Mouse ears" pattern seen in Britain or even Europe you are on your own..... not an expert in that area.

Bob C.