Rifle cups & adjusting shims
Phil,
Yes, I will send you the finished dimensions once I get the blocks. The o/d will remain the same, i/d length will be altered with corresponding change to wall thickness at the curved part and possibly all over if he decides to make it all the same thickness, which not doubt may be done. If so, it will be done very well!
Re Door Shims
The shims for door hinge adjusting were a very simple item, made from a thin strip of 30mm x 1.6mm aluminium flat bar. By pure luck, my local hardware (35min away) had a range of these for hobby use.
Manufacture was as follows:
Place the hinge over the aluminium and draw around the outside of hinge, also marking hole locations. Centre punch & drill the two holes, then shape to desired size. I used a grinder with cutting wheel on. I was too lazy to change to a grinder wheel for a few seconds worth of grinding, it really was that quick. Once shaped, I then used the cutting wheel to cut in from the long edge twice for each hole. That is all there is to it! Very simple but VERY effective. There is no way I could have achieved the desired result without the shims, and at 1.6mm each, they were not going to make a gross change that looks out of place. One little tip on the shim finish, etch prime each side and paint the edges that may be seen. I brushed the green along all edges regardless of being visual or not.
Re Packing to Windscreen support frame ends.
I found the single packing I used on each end of the windscreen support frame totally eliminated the possibility of touching door, with the most desired side-efffect of bringing the individual window frame opening to within 1mm out of square! This is the case with my truck, but I would expect the tolerences to be greatly variable between vehicles. My window on drivers side will have an even 5mm (roughly 3/16) clearance on both sides with the pack insitu. Eack piece is a 50mm x 3mm flat bar, once again aluminium, making it easy to shape as needed. You would notice two of the corners are cut at 45%, this is because the taper of cab frame was just a 'bees dick' narrower than the aluminium strip at the very top. When the whole thing is assembled, the aluminium should not be visible in any way. Regardless, I painted the edges prior to finall permanent assembly.
Hope this helps.
I will discover what the passenger side has in store for me this weekend.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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