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Old 20-05-12, 11:55
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Getting the nose panel ready for installing

Moving on from the trilogy in four parts that was the TAC sign, I started getting nose panel ready to attach.
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Side vents were treated to a strip of foam seal. Then I began re-installing the vents themselves, and made the re-discovery that hole size of the vent hinge and where it attaches to the nose are very much different. The little 'collars' that were in here had been thrown out as they were badly corroded.
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Here's a little wrinke which you may find useful! I discovered that steel fuel line is EXACTLY the right size to fit into the vent portion, and was a firm fit to the size of bolts I was planning to use. Firm but not tight enough to stop free movement of the vent during use. Just be sure to cut the fuel line a 'bees dick' thicker than the gauge steel on vent. That way the vent won't stick once bolt is tightened.
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I'm happy with the finished result. Low tack tape was used around the vent edge and nose panel opening, so I didn't damage paint while getting the fit correct.
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I glued rubber stripping along the nose panel edges. There was no functional way I could use a single piece of rubber, so made the join at corners in a way that is intended to stop water from 'wicking' between the rubber pieces and into the cab. Little did I know that once bolted onto the cab front, there would still be gaps between cab and nose, even with the rubber. Very small gaps, but gaps none the less. I had even thought to ensure nose panel would be straight along that edge but it didn't make any difference. Guess the whole idea was a moot point really. I could use a silicone sealer, but it may get messy. I am not neat with that stuff!
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The seals around the wheel arches worked considerably better.

More to come...
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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