Blocked Radiator or Blocked Engine.
Hi Tony
I've look at the radiator with an IR gun to see the change in temp across the radiator, left to right and up and down on both sides of the radiator (You can only do this on the test stand without the fan mounted) fairly consistent readings left to right. and a good 20F-40F degree delta from top to bottom, moderate airflow from a fan.
Reason I thing it is trash and crap in the water jacket, is when I removed the water pump and look in there was an acorn. Then when I started pushing a tube probe into the block and head with vacuum attached kept getting sandy or rusty grit out of the block.
I've got the radiator mounted on the test stand with the 235 engine so tomorrow I'll start doing some run tests with airflow and see if I keep getting a good delta temperature drop across the radiator.
Will say one thing about 235 it has hydraulic lifters and boy is that a quiet engine without a fan mounted. The loudest think is the mechanical fuel pump which I've bye past for an electric one.
One thing I am going to check is the thickness of the radiator as compared to the Pattern 13.
With the 235 or the 216 I have noticed one thing you need to have a bypass from the thermostat housing down to the pump housing because modern thermostats don't have enough bypass to allow the hot water to actually get to the thermostat to get it to open. Also these engines I think originally had 140F thermostats which are no longer available the lowest being 160F.
On the test stand I have one temperature gauge reading the normal position at the rear of the block and another in the pump housing reading the return temperature. Then I use the IR gun to read the temp at the top of the radiator and the bottom.
If this radiator doesn't work I'll order a aluminum hotrod radiator.
More to follow.
Cheers Phil
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