The steering was all connected up, well not all, as the steering wheel, steering tube etc cannot be connected until the hull us bolted on.
The bearing adjustment of the front wheel bearings is the same as for a Ford or Chev Blitz it is a trial and error job. This adjustment involves the use of a 8" long spanner so that not too much torque is applied. The axle nut is tightened with this spanner and one corner of the nut is marked. The nut is then backed off 3/4 of one flat and the nut marked on the nut opposite the mark on the hub. The hub is then disassembled again and a thin shim fitted. The hub is then re-assembled and tightened up with that 8" spanner once again. If the mark on the axle is within 1/4" either way of the mark on the hub, then the bearings are set correctly. If it is not, you have to do it all again putting in thicker shims until it is correct. Good Luck.
One thing that surprised me is that the steering tie rod between the two front wheels has a gentle curve. I thought that it needed straightening but no, that is how it was made. You would think that it would flex when a bump was hit. It is bent to curve past the front diff.
The clutch master cylinder brackets were next and what a mongrel they were to fit. You need about 5 hands to locate the bolts and the master cylinder to the brackets which bolt to the cross member and the steel cross brace which helps keep the fuel tank armour in place.
Andy Seymour at the Berwick Brake Place located the front and rear axle flexible brake pipes and here one is hanging out of the left front brake fitting.
Here the chassis has been painted, the new tyres fitted and sitting on one of the most handy tools you can have in your shed.Go Jacks. With these I was able to move the chassis around all over the workshop when I needed to. No effort or lifting required. These ones have hydraulically lifts and are so simple to use.
There gear box is in place and linked to the gear change tower as well.
Rick.