[horsa]

I'd reiterate what Rob says with making sure you have metal core wires and not modern performance types with a carbon core.

When I had my T-16, it did suffer from this issue but I was convinced at the time that it was fuel/heating related and not an electrical/heating issue. I switched to an electric fuel pump and it seemed to resolve the problem for the most part. The dingo came along after we'd sold the T-16 so I wish I still had access to it for testing the coil/wiring fix since it 100 percent nailed it in the case of the dingo. I was very skeptical until I saw the results first hand changing the leads and ensuring good connections.

A related issue for you is the noise suppression "filters" on the coil and spark wires. Essentially each is an electrical short waiting to happen if you have them installed. Basically 18 self inflicted places the wires can be getting poor connections as the wood screws loose contact with the wires they are threaded into. Sixteen ends on spark wires and two ends on the coil wire. Very similar mechanically to how the dingo wires have the screws to make contact inside the waterproof distributor housing.

On 6v to 12v, Ford was using 6v on cars and trucks at the time but they wanted 12v for the wireless set. Easier for them to stay with a stepped down 6v coil during the war.

On electronic distributors, most come with a very hot coil which is likely epoxy filled as opposed to oil filled so they can be mounted sideways and are shock/rattle proof. Many oil filled coils will begin to fail if mounted sideways/horizontal which gets worse as they overheat. I'd get a high performance epoxy filled coil and check wires before changing to an electronic v8 dizzy. If you do go electronic, you'd not be out anything since you'd need both anyway.