This is how my tyres were fitted to the CMP rims. I must stress the importance of attention to detail and technique. Safety should be first concern, so care must be considered at all times.
First, apply some talcum powder to inner surface of the tyre and all over the tube. Fit tube and liner into tyre. Then brush a liberal amount of suitable tyre fitting grease onto rim halves, from the curve all the way down to where the tyre bead will eventually seat. Apply grease to tyre bead and visible portion of the tube liner. The liner will need to slip freely away as the rim halves come together. We used a lanolin based grease that was easily obtained from local automotive store. "Rubber Grease" was mentioned on the list of suitable uses, on label of the grease tub, so we knew it wouldn't damage rubber. I bought 2 tubs, each being 500grms, and we didn't even use one full tub.
Place tyre and tube over the inner half of wheel, facing upwards. In this photo, you can see the talc powder that got over exterior of the tyre. The tyre seated easiest to inboard wheel half, probably because it was already sitting squarely on the wheel, thanks to the flat surface beneath. Starting now, and at every stage of the fitting, check the liner and tube are located evenly around the tyre and not sticking out anywhere more than should be. This is VITALLY IMPORTANT!
Place the outer half of the wheel over the assembly, in position for the wheel nut holes to align correctly. On some rims, the studs for joining wheel halves were slightly longer, and a CMP wheel nut could be started onto at least one stud, sometimes more than one. Be careful NOT to tighten that/those nuts yet. You don't want to have one side compressed much more than the other! Using two (or more, if you prefer) lengths of thick threaded rod with nut welded to one end, push it through from beneath, with enough excess thread to get another nut (and washer first) on the upper end of the rod. Now, you can start CAREFULLY tightening the threads and whatever wheel nuts went on, in a manner to keep the top wheel half level as possible. You might already find considerable perch can be made at this stage,
however it is vitally important to check between the wheel halves, to be absolutely certain the tube and liner are not becoming caught between the wheel halves. This is where the grease to the liner pays for itself. Don't tighten nuts too much at this point. A few revolutions of the nuts will suffice. My friend had a piece of steel which he would continually use to feed between the halves to gauge depth of the liner from the wheel centre edge. Choose something blunt that can poke the liner back in if you suspect it may be getting in the way. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the tool at correct depth needed to ensure liner is clear. Make a habit of checking this every step of the process, and check thoroughly all the way around the wheel. It may save you needing to replace a tube and liner, which is what will be required if you pinch the tube.
Continue to tighten the threaded rods evenly, and at this stage you may get a fair few wheel nuts on. By now the tyre will start to be forced onto the wheel, but it may not go evenly. This is normal. Once all applicable nuts and threaded rod are tightened to the extent that risk of wheel halves seperation has been eliminated, you're just about ready to start inflating the tyre.
There is one more step you should do before putting air into the tyre. REMOVE THE VALVE FROM THE TUBE. You'll find out why shortly. With valve removed, start inflating the tyre, but before you do, check the liner is out of the way again. If you are lucky, the wheel nuts may now have been tightened to the extent that you can't really get anything between the wheels halves. This is OK, provided you have been checking again and again as the nuts were tightened originally. If you DO still have room to check liner, please do so now.
To be continued...