If the temp is not overheating, then there is no problem with your thermostat. Most likely it is one of two things. The most likely is that you are simply overfilling the radiator. Unlike modern vehicles, there is no radiator overflow. So if you have overfilled the rad, as it expands, there will be some overflow. It should find it's own level, which will be just above the core of the radiator.
The other is that you could have the beginning of a head gasket leak. Try this: Open and close the rad cap (engine cold) so there is zero pressure in the radiator. Start the jeep cold and run it for 30 seconds to a minute. Shut it off and open the rad cap. If there is pressure there, then you need the engine gasket replaced. You will also observe that the coolant will turn a muddy brown instead of it's usual bright green. Don't bother with the gasket sealing gimmicks....replace the gasket. It only takes a couple hours and you will be good for another 30 years. I had to recently do this on the parade Jeep here in Shilo. Only 2300 original miles, but the coolant got acidic over the years and the gasket failed along with some of the aluminum heater hose fittings.
Wrt what thermostat to use if you did need one, if you are going to use your Jeep in the cooler months and want your heater, then go with a 180. Otherwise, a 160 is fine. Note that these temps are the closing temps of the thermostat. Some of the lesser brands of thermostat will not open until 240, which is fine for modern automobiles with 15 pound pressure systems, but is too high for the 7 lb system of a Jeep. In the old days, a Cdn tire thermostat would give me grief while a Ford motorcraft thermostat worked just fine. In all honesty, I have not replaced a thermostat in a lot of years, so you may be fine with a NAPA or Cdn tire thermostat these days. The thermostat is common to Ford and Dodges from the last 60 years so is easy enough to find.
Back to your steering: The drag link is adjustable, so unless you know you need the pitman arm because the ball has been worn, then you can just remove the cotter pins on each end of the drag link, and tighten up the sockets a bit. Not enough to bind, but enough to remove the play. For the bellcrank, you just need two torrington B188 bearings, and can flip the sleeve over to run the bearings on fresh surfaces.
The safety check may not catch the kingpin bearings. In this modern age of sealed disposable balljoints, most mechanics will not look for the worn bearings of the kingpins. They certainly would not be doing the test I indicated of removing the tires and tie rods, and turning the knuckles.
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