I think your flasher is tired, or possibly had bad ground, but most likely is tired.
It can be replaced with a 2 prong 24 volt flasher if you have trouble finding a solid state one. The solid state flasher connection has 3 pins. Two of them are power in and flash out while the third is a ground. Install a normal flasher across the power in and flash out wires. Whether you cut your existing wires, or figure a way to tie in to the wiring is up to you.
If the lamp merely stayed on, then it would indicate a short, which is easy to find. There are 4 wires at the harness that have to do with the actual lamps. They are easy to remember....even will be for the right, and odd ofr the left. The key is number 460 and 461.
460 is front right turn
461 is front left turn
460-22 is rear right turn/brake light
461-22 is rear left tuen/brake light.
You would simply remove the connector at the signal arm, then with a multi meter set to ohms, put one wire of your meter to chassis ground and the other to the appropriate pin on the harness. Sorry, but I don't remember the abc numbers on the harness, but you can look those up on any SMP schematic easily enough. You will find the ohms reading (resistance) of each lamp will be somewhat similar. But if there is a short, you will find one wire will have a much much higher resistance or even a completely grounded condition. That will tell you what wire you are chasing.
The most common place for a short was the little wiring clips along the frame. They could eventually rub through the insulation of the harness and cause a short. Merely moving the offending clip a few inches along with a bit of electric tape would fix the problem.
I am sure whatever bulb you bought is fine.
Doubtful that changing a lense is your problem, although a lot fo the wires were pretty chewed up where they pass under the hood. As well, they will have been cut and a blue connector installed when guys would pull the engine. Far easier to do that than try and undo the little screw that held the clamploop that secured the wire. You could almost tell how many times the engine had been out by the number of crimp on connectors on those two wires.
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