Here is the story on the bellcranks.
Originally there was no cotter pin hole. That was a modification instruction that came out in the 70s (I think) becayse if the top nut came off, and the tensioning bolt was not tight, then the main bellcrank bolt could slip down resulting in total steering failure.
In the 80s, as the fleet neared the end, there was a new kit for the bellcrank that came out of the supply system. It was supplied by mil-quip (formerly Automobiles Rene-Gagnon as the packaging used to say). Although very complete, it lacked the cotter pin hole, and the main bolt was so hardened that even our machinists could not drill through it.
I don't think you will find the cotter pin hole on the civilian replacements either, although I could be wrong.
Now as to the actual problem in your bellcrank. There is a steel sleeve inside the bellcrank that rides along two Torrington B-188 bearings. A poor man's fix is to replace the two bearings, and flip the sleeve upside down so the bearings are riding on fresh surfaces. This is dependant on the ball at the draglink still being somewhat round, although the draglink itself can be adjusted to compensate for reasonable wear.
When the main bolt is tightened up, there should be no up-down play. between the mount, the sleeve, and the large washer underneath that, everything should rotate on that surface. The sleeve should be tight, and not be rotating on the main bolt. If it is, then it will be a poor bearing, and the surface of the bolt will wear.
While the cotter pin is a nice physical lock, a self locking nu talong with some Loctite will do the job as well if you are unable to drill the main bolt.
By the way, as a young private, I did experience the bellcrank failure....well almost, as the bolt actually hung up on the axle just before the failure was catastrophic.
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