Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Parker
No matter what you have to go back to the most solid metal. Welding rust thinned metal never goes well. If it were me I'd cut back to the best solid metal you've got, bust my butt forming a replacement part of the same gauge steel then weld top and bottom.
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Hello Bruce,
Thank you for your suggestion. It one I intend to follow to the letter, However, the first thing I have to do is to totally separate the panels. To do this I have to remove more welded end-seams.
Once each panel is removed I can work on it as an individual unit. Where I will cut the rust out and make rust repair sections.
After this work is done, I will also be using weld through primer and some form of heavy duty seam sealer.
The main target of my post was to find a tool that can do a better job cutting the welded seams than what quality the reciprocating saw provided on the driver's section.
My concern is that the reciprocating saw needs clearance for the full length of the blade's stroke. I was lucky with the position in the door space that I could get the required clearance for the blade. However, the part where the plenum joins with section that forms the lower windscreen channel may feature a dead-end. This means the reciprocating saw blade will not have clearance to operate in.
Perhaps, a small Dremel cut-off wheel or die grinder fitted with a cut-off wheel? Or is there another Dremel-based tool that could do the job of cutting/grinding through multiple seam welds?
Kind regards
Lionel