Quote:
Originally posted by Phil Waterman
Neil- If I understand it the WWII vintage grease was rated for temperature range, look at the lubrication chart you will note that Grease No. 0 is for temperatures +10F Down to -10F, while Grease No. 1 was for +10F up while Grease No. 2 was listed for 70F to -25 F. Modern grease is not as prone to change in property as grease of 60 years ago. I have several manuals covering my HUP and what is specified changes from No1 to just grease as time goes by, now this may have been just to ease supply.
As some of the earlier post on this thread indicate the issue is probably as much regular lubrication as anything else. The grease plugs on the drive balls are the same size as grease fittings and for a while I used to just screw in a grease fitting each spring and shoot in some new grease. Then I thought about it and realized that the new grease was ending up at the outside of this ball of grease. Now I take a piece of clear tubing and slipped it on to grease fitting. Remove the plug and insert the tube with the wheel jacked up I move it just a little bit so that the tube is slipping all the way into the center of the knuckle then I shoot in 10 shots of fresh wheel/chassis grease. This way the new grease starts out in the center. Be careful not to rotate the wheel enough to catch the end of the tube in the balls of the knuckle.
|
Hi Phil...
In some applications ,bearing housings are drilled with two or more ports...
One is for a grease fitting and one or more are relief ports...and usually they are either 1/8" or 1/4" pipe threads,In Canada or US equipment...
Many's a seal has been blown out and bearings damaged from over greasing,as the bearings tend to overheat with an over abundance of grease..
So ensure that relief ports are removed when greasing ...
Give that old grease somewhere to go as the new stuff is pumped in..
