[Bob Carriere]

Will need to follow up from home for specifics.

1. Grant is right..... save that master cylinder and get it resleeved..... you might want to check Hemmings for a resto shop near you. In Canada Stuart in Stoney Creek charegs about $200 for a S.S. job.

Wheel cylinders are Wagner with different numbers for front and rear..... I have the numbers at home will flash it on tonite. They are $40 each and were used well into the late 50s in industrial applications...i.e. fork lifts, etc.

I would strongly recommend you take the time to change all your axle seals..... why do the job twice......even if they do not leak...now.... they will. If the are original.... probaby leather..... give them a few weeks with fresh lub and some good hot operating temperature and start mopping up leaks. Besides they are not expensive.

By the way in most instances, forget the original part numbers form the 40s parts book. Most modern search engines and comparaison charts will go that far back. A good professional industrial bearing shop will measure the ID, OD thickness and search for various suppliers. Ottawa is a not a "commercial/production" town but I found a shop called Industrial Solutions and they provide/search bearing and seals according to dimensions.

The big 5 or 6 inch oil seals in the front brake drums..... I was quoted up to $60 each..... I walked in, he measured and came back with one off the shelf and apologized for having only one but 36 hours later the second one arrived..... and only 19.95 to boot.

Rear axle seals... inner.... that has a skirt that fits inside the sheet metal cup of the axle..... available from Mac Auto Ford repro shop in Niagara for about $25...... claimed to fit a 1 1/2 to 3 ton Ford rear axle. They only had one.... my guy in Ottawa found one in California $24 incl. shipping..... but when I got it it was old stock with a leather seal which had to be soaked in engine oil. If you can do it... stay away from NOS with leather..... the new neoprene are much better.

If you work on the tranny and T case..... if your shaft rubbing surfaces are pittedgrooved worn..... DO consider using a speedy sleeve..... a very thin SS sleev that is gently pressed on.....hot/cold contrast will help. Again they are purchased by size min. to max. BUT they are expensive.... on a T case a bearing and races is about $45.00..... seal maybe $12.... the Speedy Sleeve will set you back $40 + -....... machining the shaft and rebuilding to nos size would be much more expensive.

To date I have replaced everything on a C15a....WITH.. new available stock items........the exception being the infamous flat bearing in the front axle on top and bottom of the egg cup...commonly referred to as king pin bearings...... ## 928... made by New Departure...... no new equivalent exists. Remaining NOS stock World Wide less than 100 at last count and priced at $200 +++ each .....with four needed. We strongly suspect they that they are also used on Cadilac LaSalle front King pin circa 1935-37.

Brake shoes....... clean up what you have.... if not damaged or cracked... probably script stamped "FORD"...... have new linings installed rivited or glue bonded..... have your brake drums cleaned up on a lathe and have the shoes arced to fit exactly the new curve of the drums.... about $250 for the four shoes...... $35 per drum to turn lightly and bring your old bearing for the set up on the lathe.

E brake drum lining about $125........

if you replace or clean up and repack bearings...... repacking bearing can be made easier if you use one of the large syringe needles they sell that fits into the grease gun fitting..... it allows you to insert grease deep into the guts of a bearing much better and more economical that by hand or using the bearing cones regualrly sold in Ato parts houses.

Now you only need to do one thing for us on the Forum...... post lots of pictures of your before and after successes or boo boo!!!!!

BooBee