[Andrew Rowe]

Hi Andrew, I am at a loss as to why your coils run hot. When these machines came out of the factories, they went straight in action, with I would have thought all the problems designed and sorted out. Nowadays we are trying to pickup on old technology and make things work , with limited skills and training.
I cannot see why a proper coil , original dizzy cannot work perfectly. The need to keep jumping to electronic stuff is lost on me.
The coil you should use is a Ballast 12 volt with external resistor. So nothing special about that. What we have done in the past is run an extra wire from the starter button side of the solenoid direct to the coil with an in-line diode, ( to stop backfeed ). This is run in conjunction with the normal wiring of your coil through the resistor to the coil. So, when you push your finger on the start button you get direct feed of 12 volt to coil, and then dizzy. Once started and you release your finger off the start button, the current flow is continued on as normal through your resistor and onto the coil. BUT now you are running through the resistor, there is only 6 Volts running through the (12 V) coil, which is totally adequate for the dizzy and NO overheating problems. In My opinion the Crab type dizzy is easier to work on the the "egg type". This system is running a 12 battery, with a couple of in-line resistors for your gauges and 12 V solenoid, 12 V regulator, and original 6V gen housing converted to 12V by changing out the Field coils. Problem Free Cheers Andrew.