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Old 22-10-13, 11:30
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
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Hello Dale! No, that should not be considered as normal. I have several questions about your spray setup etc. Some of the questions may not seem relevant, but all will become clear.

Firstly, are you using a hardener with your paint? I use Protec Barrier paint, Camoflague Green, Lustreless. It is an enamel, just like you are using, but the addition of Protec 369 (I think thats the correct code) effectively changes the enamel to similar to the 2 Pack paints of much higher quality finish. Another VERY distinct advantage to using the hardener is that it has a much faster flash off time. I have painted parts at 1000hrs and picked them up by the painted part to take them inside by 1600hrs. Dont try that with unhardened enamel.

While I had been a spraypainter for many years.......many years ago now, I couldnt comment on your quoted PSI, becuase we always went by the 'vibe' of the gun. I still do that today. My books though, tell me a pressure similar to yours is roughly correct, or maybe even slightly low. I change pressures dramatically, depending on the areas being painted, and if course part size. Also, the manner of application of your coats seems about right too, so i'm thinking problem may lay with your gun setup.

You didnt mention whether you are using a suction or gravity feed gun. For the first 5 years of my trade I used only suction. Then we got trained in use of the polyurethanes/ 2-Packs, where a gravity gun was used. I have NEVER used a suction type since. Chalk & Cheese, at least in my opinion. Hopefully, your gun will have a pressure adjustment on the gun handle. If it doesnt, buy a regulator to fit to it where the air hose goes in. It makes it sooooooo much quicker and easier to make the adjustments you will find helpful as you spray different areas of smaller parts or edges of larger. My favorite gun is not an expensive Iwata or Devilbiss. I use a SuperCheap Auto one. It has never let me down, and I can honestly say a megabucks one wouldnt have done better work. Be sure to sure to use a HVLP gun. That stands for High Volume Low Pressure. On the off chance you are using an airless gun......STOP! They wont give a good finish at all....ever.

I'm making the assumption you are using the correct reducer for your specific. You dont strike me as a fellow who would take a risk with mismatched products. Also I assume the paint has been mixed almost immediately prior to use.

The problem you have described sounds like a simple case of fan pattern adjustment, possibly combined with a less than perfect spray pressure selection. Can I suggest you take the gun, add an amount of paint you can afford to do without, then experiment with fan adjustment. At each different fan adjustment, alter the pressure both down below current, then slightly above said pressure. If doing these adjustments doesnt eliminate the problem, check you fluid adjustment. In fact, check that FIRST! It may be a simple case of increasing paint flow volume, but I suspect incorrect fan pattern is also playing a part. Are you using a flattening base additive, or is this premixed at manufacture? Flattening base added at time of your use can compound the visual effect of imperfect paint layup, but thats not something you can actually avoid. Discovering exactly what is causing your dry spray patches will eliminate the issue.

If the above things dont get a result, let me know. I have an old book with some good information, and will photograph some pages for you. In fact I will start looking for my favorite book anyway, just in case.

As always with my spray lectures, please excuse me if you already knew some (or all) of the above information.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 22-10-13 at 11:37.
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