Overhaul progress February 8th to the 25th
Hi All
Been busy out in the shop but a bit slow on posting activity, first I need to update the time lapse video photo video part of the problem is the size of the thing it is now comprised of over 2000 individual photos.
Visible progress has slowed down a bit as I have gone over to a work plan of cleaning parts as I remove them. Methods of cleaning parts could be a separate thread in the Restoration Forum what works and what doesn’t. Got a kick out of Paul’s M 37 resto in new brunswick with the pump on his parts cleaning system being dissolve by the cleaner.
I have been using, very hot water, Gunk and Kerosene, what has been working well though for small parts is boiling water and Arm & Hammer washing soda. Large electric fry pan with water and the washing boiling away and just put in the parts and let them boil while I working on other stuff. Then rinse with hot water and parts are generally free of oil, grease and in many cases most of the paint.
Since lifting the body off the chassis was prep to using the high pressure washer with hot water, had to wait until it was warm enough to do out side. Fortunately the weather cooperated with a day in the high 50s.
Once cleaned the chassis was pull back into the shop once again using the winch on the C60L. Then everything that can be unbolted from the frame has been removed.
Only repair work on the frame its self that had to be done was to straighten out the rear cross frame member which showed the evidence of several occasions of unwise attachment of towing chains. The two tow eyes designed for this purpose had been used to mount the turn signals, something I will correct when I reassemble. I considered two methods of repair, one replace the whole cross member the other was to cut straighten and re-weld, the results of cutting and welding look OK and is probably stronger than trying to replace all the rivets.
Rob (or any body else) did you find any crack problems on the frame that I should examine carefully? The frame seems to be quite rigid not like some frames I worked on where when you support the frame at the four corners you can lift one corner up without lifting any others. My frame passes this test, pick up one corner and other corner at that end comes up as well.
Has anybody found a serial number stamped on the frame of later HUPs my understanding is that it should be on the right side near the spring hanger under the drivers area. But I have not found any sign of a number and the area was still coved with paint.
As soon as I update my web page I’ll post the link
Cheers Phil
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