And then the question will be who is going to get the colours right?
A first go by me . Getting paint matched to artifacts or chips its all the same .
Three hero sized chips from paint supplied to match samples provided.
The first is industrial enamel matched by the supplier of paints to the smash repair folks around Bankstown. The eye matcher has a reputation for being one of the best. MY score...within a bulls roar...if you can hear the bull from the next village. The paint is industrial enamel 10% gloss (dead flat) covers grey primer in two coats by brush ..application ...moderate.
The second is White Knight matched using their computer gadget at Bunnings... The match can't be detected when dry paint as a small swipe applied to the artifact.(that is its just about perfect) It is semigloss so 60% gloss but I can get flattening agent to dull that down. The White Knight paint is horrible...takes three coats to cover grey primer lots of brush strokes stay evident and difficult to apply .Bunnings give you the formula it is repeatable.
The final one is the Coultards Alkyd paint from the seventies...just to try it out. Application is easy covers in one coat and leaves little by way of brush strokes.
The colour is going to differ depending on the kind of paint used , acrylic, two pack ,enamel oil based, enamel Alkyd...amount of flatting. They were painted with an early version of Alkyd enamel during the war and look to be dead flat. (10% or so) as noted earlier the pigments are different so they will look different in different lights. I found the less ambient light the more they looked the same until in the absence of any light they looked identical.!!! true.
I may be in the process of abandoning my quest for perfection....
I to match original Australian oil filter bracket off CMP late 1942/43 green . 2 of NOS CMP door hinge early 1942 green.
3 is Coultards 1970s Khaki as applied to Ackos.
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