Removal of the LOCKS, Panel and SWITCHES, Toggle combination this morning went rather smoothly.
I started with the bottom pair of LOCKS mounting screws by placing a 5/16 –inch socket on the underside hex nut and a screwdriver in the machine screw head to hold the screw. Then turned the socket until the hex nut was loose, Switched from the socket to pinkies to hold the nut and removed the machine screw by hand as well. When both machine screws had been removed, the LOCKS assembly was still snug against the back of the Sender front panel.
Next step was to use a screwdriver to gently loosen the top SWITCHES mounting screw about three turns. This relaxed the entire assembly enough I could use a pair of tweezers to remove the lower two mounting spacers. I then carefully removed the top machine screw by hand.
At this point, the lower end of the LOCKS and SWITCHES drops noticeably but not enough to extract the LOCKS. About one inch of swing is needed to allow the lock cylinder to drop far enough it can pivot free from the panel. It is prevented from doing that because of the mass of switch wiring the assembly now rests on at the top end of the switch back.
To get the clearance needed for the lock cylinder to swing free, the switch toggle needs to be able to drop free from its panel hole and move towards the panel hole for the cylinder. I put my two index fingers either side of the switch plate close to the toggle and applied enough downward pressure that I could see a gap open between the back of the Sender panel and the top of the rear spacer. I then reached in with the tweezers and pulled out the rear spacer. A little more angled downward pressure was applied to the switch plate and the toggle dropped free of its hole and moved down the back of the panel enough the LOCKS dropped free and could be removed. The tip of the switch toggle came to rest just at the top lip of the cylinder hole.
I gave the LOCKS a quick wipe to clean off the 3 in 1 oil I had applied to keep the cylinder and slide free. I thought I might find the model number or key code stamped on the body of the lock somewhere but it appears the only visible marking so far is a small horizontal oval stamped roughly centred between the two mounting holes on the back of the lock body with “CORBIN” inside the oval. I will take a closer look at that later. Also on the backside on the lock mounting holes, you can just see the small recess at each hole where the top ends of the spacers drop.
David
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