Hi Boobee
We used 20 gauge satin coat for the door skins and the fuel tank. The satin coat is a little more expensive but well worth it for rust resistance
although you must use quality primer with it. One of the first projects I did was a front hatch cover for my artillery tractor. A painter friend of mine stopped over to look at my work and said it was a waste of time because of the primer I had used. He proceeded to use a razor blade and peel it off. That was a quick lesson. The ends for the tank were made with heat and a wooden buck with the metal sandwiched between 2 pieces. Bob then drilled through the whole thing in 2 spots
and bolted the big sandwich together. The holes can be welded up later. There is a special spray that is flame retardant for the wood but we didn’t have any at the time. There is a photo on MLU someplace showing the singed bucks. Bob had a die made up for the bead roller
to make a crease along the curved surface on the door bottom. Then it was just hammer and dolly work to finish bending it over, being careful not to mark the outside of the door. We have not done a 13 cab door yet but for the crease in the top we will have another die made for the bead roller. Bob made the bead roller and I will try to get
a photo of it on here sometime. When you are finished with a fuel tank you will see that $400.00 for the tank is not far out of line. It’s a lot of
time. We used as much of the fittings in the old tank as possible.
Cheers,
Barry
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Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal.
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