Started really testing the engine out the HUP to see what needs to be rebuilt. Known problems:
- Oil leaks, front and rear main seals, valve cover, side cover
- Beginning of a little exhaust smoke
- Exhaust manifold leaks - big time
- Replace all rubber parts just from age
- Engine has never had detergent oil
- Non hardened valves or seats
Other work suspected as this engine
- Put the original carb back on it - swap the orginal carb for one the C60S as the bigger carb needed the better carb when it had the 216
- Lower than desired compression more on this below
- Valve wear, from the 216 in the C60S which spent its entire life at full throttle or idle, valve wear or valve recession is a real problem compounded by the hotter burning gas now.
This engine has never been out of the HUP or apart, this is my from my direct knowledge 1979-now and from talking with the previous owner 1946-1978. I've never even had the head off or dropped the oil pan. Previous owner thought the head was replaced at one point. I've never wanted to mess with success by taking the thing apart, it just runs so nice.
As this particular HUP is basically as original as is likely to be encountered I am very reluctant to replace any thing that can be rebuilt and reused. (See genuine or repro ??? That is the question !
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=16343 interesting thread)
This includes the engine, so diagnostics before the rebuild I hope will help keep it as original as possible while stopping the oil leaks and ensuring the same level of reliability it has demonstrated over the last 66 years.
Anyway the engine is now completely set up on an engine test stand and can be run, while having full access to the engine top, sides, and bottom not something easily done in the HUP. First thing was bring the engine up to operation temperature with the oil temp fully equalized with the water at 180-185 F used an IR gun get the temps.
I discovered why it is so hard to get a CMP up to temp and equalized with out driving in on the road. It is difficult to get it up to temperature and actually equalized even with the grill completely covered. The design of the fan shroud results in a significant reverse air flow coming forward through the radiator at the top and bottom corners. This air is then sucked back through the center, radiator enclosure which provides 4-8 inches of space between the grill and radiator for this air circulation. Even with the grill area covered this counter airflow allows/causes a significant temp delta from top to bottom. A thin sheet of card stock/poster board slid directly down the front of the radiator will block the counter flow if there is space for it.
Anyway after finally getting the engine equalized at 185 shut it down and did a series of compression tests. Valve lift or cam lobe wear measurement. What I found for valve clearance, and oil pressure to time, oil temp and water temp test.
I'll post the rest of the engine measurements over on my web site because they are on a spread sheet and every time I tried to past the results here the formatting fell apart.
http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...20Page%202.htm