valve removal cont
Then it was cut into three 0.4” lengths. The idea was to slip the three pieces under the head of the valve into the valve port. The first piece was generously tapered to ensure that it could not catch on the small land round the top of the valveguide. The second piece was left square top and bottom and the top piece was relieved better to fit the underside of the head of the valve.
Employing the valve stops
First the engine is turned until the valve opens. By means of a pair of screwdrivers, the valve is levered fully opened. It is important to avoid bending the valve by levering unevenly under the head of the valve.
The valve stops are slipped onto the valve stem one by one in the right order. It is important to avoid the stops sliding down the exhaust port. A little grease in the valve stop gives it sufficient stickiness to avoid this.
The valve is then released to settle on the stops, the engine turned to get to the back of the cam lobe, and the head tapped with a hammer to force the valveguide down by 1/8” and the “C” clip can be removed. The valve head is lifted once more and spacers placed between the tappet and the foot of the valve. The engine is turned to bring the tappet to the top of the cam lobe and the spring, which will bind if sufficient packing has been introduced, will push the valve, valveguide and spring out. It may take two goes, introducing more packing after the first go but the assembly will pop out. Have a care. Place a blanket over the valve for this last stage as, otherwise, the assembly will travel some distance across the garage as it did in my case taking a chip of paint out of my pride and joy, a 1948 Riley.
Afterword
If you have read this far you may have been shouting at your computer saying, “But there is a much easier way”. If so then please tell me, I have another of these engines to tinker with.
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