cmp cab frame required

[kevin powles]

Hi, Can anyone supply a complete cab frame for a Chevrolet C15, rust free, any leads will be appreciated. within the uk or europe.

Thanks kevin.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Hi Kevin,

Did you buy that C15A off eBay? There are some differences between the C15 4x2 and C15A 4x4, that's why I'm asking.

Hanno

Originally Posted by kevin powles

Hi, Had a look at this old girl today. I think if you tried to load it it would fold in half, aparently the barn had no roof!.
kev.

[cletrac (RIP)]

I assume he wants the angle iron arches for an 11 or 12 cab and there's quite a difference between the 4x2 and 4x4. It has to do with how sharp the wheels turn. The inner sheet metal is different too.

[kevin powles]

Hi, Hanno and David, Yes I bought that one, I have attached a picture from 1991 of what she once looked like, I guess 21 years of standing outside unused has taken its toll. Firstly what attracted me to this machine was the tow bar, I will remove it and use it on the 'Stacey Towing Attachement' on my carrier, Secondly is the number plate '112FCE', This is worth more in the uk than the truck itself!. To be able to remove and sell this number the vehicle needs to be taxed and tested, The plan is to remove the cab and buck, commission the engine, driveline and brakes, get it MOT'ed, get the taxation class changed to 'historic'...............then put the number on 'retention'. What I hope to end up with is a CMP truck which works out to be a very economical investment.

So looking for a new cab as this one I think is behond repair, I have a fellow digging out the trucks history and an article of when it was first restored many years ago.

kevin.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by kevin powles

I have a fellow digging out the trucks history and an article of when it was first restored many years ago.

Kevin,

That's a good one for CMPs where are they now?!

Here's hoping you investment turns out well plus another CMP is saved.

Hanno

[Marc van Aalderen]

Kevin,

I understand 21 years outside taking their toll. I do not understand a previous owner(s) leaving a nice truck like this one outside for that period. It's barbaric....

Cheers,

[kevin powles]

Hi, The strip down is going well, will upload some photo's soon, one thing to mention is at the moment after 20 years of standing she wont go into any gear, engine remains stuck, havent tried to turn the engine other than on the handle, will follow advice on the pushrod inspection first. I thought possibly the clutch could be stuck on the flywheel, rear and front axles turn freely, passanger side rear wheel also stuck.

Any ideas on the gear selection problem would help.

thanks kevin.

[kevin powles]

Hi, Visited the previous owner today, He has recently had a stroke so was unable to tell me very much about the vehicle, but I have gathered the truck was laid up due to a top end engine problem, so the head is coming off next week, Can anyone tell me if the sump will come off with the engine in situ?.

thanks kev.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Kevin

Yes, I believe you should be able to drop the sump in situ? I have dropped the sump on my C60S. Watch out though, because even when you have drained the pan it still holds a lot of oil up in the troughs. It is also heavy and awkward. Remember to pull the dip stick out it gets in the way, you need to pull the pan down a little over half inch to clear the oil line tube fitting so that it doesn't get bent.

The 2nd time I dropped the pan I had learned and replace four of the pan bolts with 1" long bolts on the corners. Then I removed the rest of the pan bolts. Then used a putty knife to release the gasket all the way around. If you have a floor jack you might want to put that under the lower sump once the pan is completely loose while you remove the last bolts. The jack will help balance the the pan as you bring it down clear of the front axle and drive shaft.

If your engine has the original deep sump pan, you can tell by looking to see if there is a seam about 3 inches up the sump, the oil pump and pickup screen actually sit down in the lower sump and will tend to catch on the sides of the upper section. The deep sump pans were made by cutting a hole in the bottom of a regular pan and then soldering a second bottom section on. The bottom of the upper pan serves a purpose in helping to prevent the oil from sloshing away from the oil pick up in steep operation or rough terrain.

Cheers Phil

[kevin powles]

Hi, Front cab was completley removed today, noticed the rear mounting bolt spring was broken. Continued to powerwash oil/dirt off, windscreen and frame is repairable as is the cab floor, plan is to grit blast and have zinc coated aswell as the archers and windscreen frame.

Looking ahead I was wondering has anyone ever used a modern day brake bleeder, the type which connects to your car tyre, If I was to connect this to the resovoir and seal the connection, could I then bleed off from each brake as you would a normal car brake system, or can someone supply the correct bleeding tool as in the workshop manual.

kev. thanks for the advice on the sump removal, will give it a try.

[kevin powles]

Hi, Cylinder head removed today, all checked ok, no cracks, cylinder head grit blasted cleaned and primed ready for rebuild, all valves and gear in very good condition.

A couple of negative points : No thermostat in the housing, engine stuck because the two rear bores have had water in them over the years. fourth cylinder from the front had some gouges in the bores, I suspect the truck was parked up because of this 20 years ago, not sure what caused this, any ideas??.

Also the thermostatic valve built into the exhaust manifold has been welded shut and the manifold welded to the intake manifold, so basically the whole thermostatic valve has been disabled. Is this common?, perhaps a mod done to other trucks, Anyone come across this before?, I need to know before I start refurbishing both manifolds.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Kevin

I've inserted my thoughts in a different font as this seemed the most direct way to respond clearly to your questions.

"Hi, Cylinder head removed today, all checked ok, no cracks, cylinder head grit blasted cleaned and primed ready for rebuild, all valves and gear in very good condition." Depending on the condition of the valves and the seats I suspect that a complete valve job with new guides may be worth the effort in the long run but determine the condition of the rest of the engine first

"A couple of negative points : No thermostat in the housing," Not a big deal to get a new one, but might be and indication that the engine was running hot "engine stuck because the two rear bores have had water in them over the years." this damage might hone out "fourth cylinder from the front had some gouges in the bores," this one maybe more of a problem from the from the picture it looks like the gouge is curved at the top, is this toward the front or rear of the engine? If so it might be that a wrist-pin has gotten loose I suspect the truck was parked up because of this 20 years ago, not sure what caused this, any ideas??.

Also the thermostatic valve built into the exhaust manifold has been welded shut and the manifold welded to the intake manifold, so basically the whole thermostatic valve has been disabled. Is this common?, perhaps a mod done to other trucks, Anyone come across this before?, I need to know before I start refurbishing both manifolds. " First time I've heard of somebody welding one open, very common to find them stuck open. Not a real problem under most driving conditions, will tend to make the engine run rough when cold but the tight engine compartment on a CMP generally takes care of that.

Now as to the over all condition of the engine, you have not shown anything yet that would say the engine can not be rebuilt. Have you pulled the pan yet?

Cheers Phil