216 tappets while running

[harrygrey382]

Just about to retighten the head and do the valve adjust (run probably an hour tops since rebuild about 10 years ago). The manual says to set at .06 and .13 cold then adjust to .1 and .2 hot while running (it sresses this). What's the procedure here, and do you bother? I just did the valves on a toyota 2H hot and got them done before it cooled much at all...

[lynx42]

Harry,

It is the easiest thing to do and you will get them really good and quiet.

Just bring the engine up to temperature and remove the rocker cover. Start the engine, set the running at minimum revs, loosen the locking nut one pushrod at a time and slip the feeler gauge between the valve stem and the rocker. Tighten or loosen the adjuster nut until you get the right clearance and tighten the lock nut. Do this for all of the valves and the job is done. Easy and simple to do. You can start anywhere on any valve and if one is still a bit noisy, just go back and do it again,

Hope this helps.

Regards Rick.

[motto]

Exactly as Rick describes is how my dad taught me to set them. It's not difficult at a low idle using a ring spanner and a well fitting screw driver. You are far better off doing it with assistance. One on the tools and one on the feeler gauges.

The final settings according to my TM are .006" to .008" for the inlets and .013" to.015" for exhausts. For heavy duty operation it specifies .010" and .020".

David

[harrygrey382]

Thanks guys. So I guess you're doing moving the feeler gauge in and out when the valve is stationary? Are the only reasons to doing it running to keep the engine temp consistent and to not have to move the crank? Also how much oil mess is there?

MY MB-C1 manual lists the valve clearences at temps from 0 to 30 mins startging at .006I and .013E (interestingly same clearance at operating temp too) but says to adjust them at .01 and .02 later. But then it says adjust exhaust to .015 for quietest running and if "the vehicle is not to be used in high engine speed service or heavy going". I doubt this is ever going to work very hard, but the country round here is steep and I have some good sized timber in mind for later on

[motto]

There is no oil loss normally. The engine speed is to low to cause splash and the raised ridge around the outside edge that the gasket sits on stops it flowing anywhere but down the push rod holes.

There is no difficulty in feeling the amount of drag on the gauge and with two of you working the job is done quite quickly unlike doing one then rotating to another each time.

The figures I gave came from a manual for a 1-1/2 ton truck so take your pick.Err in favour of bigger rather than smaller gaps as these engines are a little prone to burning valves.

David

[harrygrey382]

ok great, just need to fill'er up with coolant then I'll give it a go. I'll be on my own as none of the other blokes here are up to it I think, or at least I don't trust them to be...

This manual covers all Chev blitzs and I er on the side of larger gaps so I'm happy with .01 and .02