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#1
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When I received my truck there was no engine, just a radiator and a transmission. Soooo, I went out and bought myself a nice old flathead V-8 with 81 A on the heads and counted my blessings that I had been able to find a nice old engine that matched the age of my truck.
![]() However, as time went on and I became more familiar with my F8, I realized that the manifolds that were on the engine were for exhausting out through the right side of the frame not the left side. ![]() Welll, thought I, that should be easy to fix; we'll just have a custom exhaust pipe made. After considering the space limitations, it appears that that may not be either possible or an easy fit! ![]() Sooo, the manifolds I have cannot be reversed, that is, switched from one side to the other. Does anyone out there know where I can get a set of manifolds that will match that originally in place on a F8? Or, have any suggestions as how I can remedy this situation? Any help on this will be most appreciated! Regards, Jim |
#2
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I don't know what manifolds you have, as the only mainfolds that were different for RHD/LHD are those found on the '49-52 8BA engine. The Manifolds used on CMP's are 78-9430 (R bank) and 78-9431 (L bank), which are the same for LHD/RHD trucks from 1937 to '46. In 1942, cars used the 21A-9430 on the Right Bank which had the studs "twisted" at an angle and the overall height is taller than the 78-9430, but there is no reason why you couldn't use this manifold provided you made up your engine pipe up to suit.
Maybe you are thinking engine pipes, which varied according to application? The pics below show the manifolds used on CMP's and a comparison between a 78 and a 21A Right bank manifold. Sorry the pics aren't really clear, might redo them in daylight! ![]() |
#3
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Just a word of caution on buying a pair with rusted or broken studs. The steel used is an absolute B**** to drill out, and rust will almost weld them in place. Last edited by Tony Smith; 21-09-08 at 14:40. |
#4
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Tony, regarding your comment about drilling out broken studs, it's easy to remove them with a cutting torch. If you're careful, the torch will blow out the bolt but won't cut the cast iron. If you've ever tried to cut cast with a torch, you'll know why. Following the torch job, just run a thread chaser through and you're done.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#5
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Tony:
You're absolutely correct; it is the pipes! I took a closer look at the manifolds and because the right side bolting surface is on a plane parallel to the ground and the left side's plane is canted to the outside, I thought that they needed to be reversed. This is, until I realized that the the left side had to be canted out in order to bypass the starter. ![]() The first picture below is one of the bottom of my engine with the front facing to the left in the picture. The manifolds on it are the same as those in the first eBay listing you gave me. (Thanks, by the way, for that reference!) However, the pipes available from Mac's and elsewhere will have to be modified. The first or what would be that commonly installed on the right side has a fork in it which would need to be cut off and moved to the other side of it in order for it to be installed on the left side of the engine. See the second picture. As for the pipe that now needs to be moved front the left side to the right side, it will need to be bent to meet the end of the newly moved fork on the pipe now attached to the left side. See the third picture. (Although I copied the pictures of these pipes right out of the Mac's on-line catalog, the one in the third picture doesn't look like it's bent correctly to be installed to meet the fork!?! Do I have the correct piece shown here?) The directions I laid out in the previous two paragraphs are only my best guess as to how to "fix" the pipes. Please let me know if I'm on the right track. Best regards, Jim |
#6
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Hello Jim
David Moore is a member of this forum and is restoring a cab12 F-8. If you contact him he may be able to send you some pictures. Here is one picture I have of his truck. Paul Last edited by Paul Singleton; 12-01-20 at 15:32. |
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