track return idler

kevin powles · #1 12-12-10, 03:39

Hi, I'm thinking about changing the track return idler bearings, I have looked at the parts drawing for the assembly, I think my pins are put in so the two retaining bolts are on the inside so the pins should come out, anyone changed these bearings without taking the central bogie complete suspension off the cross bar?. I guess i can jack the track up to clear the idler wheel without breaking the track, then ease out the pin to change the bearings. Is this possible or not. tips and hints please.

Anyone know the bearing dimensions and number off hand?.

cheers kevin.

RichardT10829 · #2 12-12-10, 13:37

part number CU1UC 100304 you need two per assembly they are an open style ball bearing (maybe better to get sealed units ?) i have checked the FUC-03 parts book and unusually the sizes are not listed. if you find my wheel bearings thread i think either Lynn or Hanno had listed the sized of the return idler bearings.

sorry cant help any further

Lynn Eades · #3 12-12-10, 18:33

I think they are 6308 (or maybe 6307) They are 6000 series (metric) and will be on the shelf at your bearing supplier.
If you break the track, and remove the collar on your cross tube, with the carrier jacked up under the hull, you can probably slide the bogie assy on the bushes enough to get the pin out.

Lynn Eades · #4 12-12-10, 19:19

O.D. is 90mm, I.D. (guess)45mm.

RichardT10829 · #5 12-12-10, 21:57

if it is the 6308 bearing it is 40 x 90 x 23 and can be yours for around £3.00

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rubber-Sealed-...item4a9162033d

6307's sizes are 35 x 80 x 25

kevin powles · #6 11-08-11, 22:35

Hi, I changed my return idler bearings yesterday by just removing the track.

A couple of pointers if anyone is thinking of doing this.

1. Once the two inner 3/8" BSF bolts are removed the two hole retaining plate needs to come out, most likely stuck, tap it and use a flat bar with two pins sticking out one side to locate in these holes, then tap round with a hammer to release the plate.

2. You need a hydraulic spreader or a small ram which will fit between the side hull and wheel pin to jack the pin out, windings in new longer BSF bolts in the pin holes will help get the reach for the ram as it pushes the pin out.

3. Once the wheel is out and you fit sealed type bearings, always remove one of the seals from each bearing and repack them with grease, (Nearly all sealed bearings purchased will contain a tiny amount of grease), put in the bearing with the remaining seal on the outer sides.

I also overhauled my rear brakes totally at the same time, complete strip down of expanders and adjusters, anyone got any internal components of these items in good condition for trade?, as I had to borrow a few bits off the mortar carrier.

hope this helps out someone, kevin.

gjamo · #7 11-08-11, 23:20

A trick I have used for double sealed bearings in dusty conditions is to fill the flutes of a 1.5mm drill with grease and drill a hole in the inner seal face. the grease traps the swarf to keep it out of the bearing. Then 1/2 fill the bearing with grease using a syringe. Lastly reseal the hole with silastic.
Graeme