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#1
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I have a M38A1 fuel tank that I aquired and the former owner tried to stop leak it by fiberglassing. The tank appears to be a good useable one if I got it lined but I would first need to strip the fiberglass off of it to see how bad it actually is.
Any suggestions to get this stuff off? I would rather not grind it, nor heat it, remember that this is a gas tank. Is there a miracle cure all for this problem? I know some solvents will cut the resin but I don't need a huge mess or a toxic situation. Would sandblast work? |
#2
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Sandblasting will work. So will a wire brush on an angle grinder but it could give you sparks.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#3
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I've had good luck getting the majority off of steel with a good wood chisel just by hand or maybe some tapping with a wooden mallet
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#4
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I have a similar problem with my M38A1 tank. I'll be watching closely. The PO glassed a leaky tank into place!
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#5
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Terry, I fear that is also the situation with mine.
I have an extra tank which I was going to clean up and keep as a spare (the fiberglassed one) but I just realized that the tank that is currently in my jeep is rather "solid". That s to say that when I removed the tank straps, it does not want to budge from the tank well. It looks like the PO may have glassed into place as well. I will let you know how this works out. |
#6
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When I used to be in glass working, we used a product named "Attack" to remove cured two-part glues and resins. Most of the time it was to remove glued on brackets, mounts etc. The stuff works by breaking the cross-linking action of the catylist within the cured resin. It had to soak for quite a while, but it did make things come appart. We used to buy it in small (6oz.) cans from a jewellery supply store, but I am sure it would be available in larger sizes.
The other way we used was to "bake" things in the kiln for a while. That might not be a good plan for your tank, but maybe putting the steam cleaner wand in it, and leaving it there until the tank is as hot as possible, would help lossen the fiberglass. |
#7
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When we started building fiberglass boats for the navy back in '62 we had a similar product.. It is still available.. Attack Epoxy and Polyester Resin Glue Dissolving Compound Dissolves cured epoxy and polyester resins so you can quickly and easily separate misaligned materials or clean cured resins from metal, stone, glass, wood and many other materials. 8 fluid oz. 38.325 Buy $13.40 ½ Gallon GLU-250.50 Buy $45.95 https://www.ishor.com/adhesive.php
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#8
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I have had to remove the dreaded fibre glass as well and have to say that the best method for me wast to use gasoline as it is not really designed to contain fuel. It does soften it to some degree. the other method already mentioned was chipping away Cut it first with a sharp knife and peel it away from the metal. 10 chances to one the person who did this didn't prep it properly so it should peel/break away.
The other tank that is stuck...probably just dirt and debris and a tight fit. If it is a tank with no folds the welded type aka the replacement tanks.they are heavier and a tighter fit in the tank well. Once it was out and all the debris removed and clean it was still a tight squeeze to put back in. Good luck and let us know how you made out! Casey
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490 |
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