Engine problems

Bryan · #1 22-06-05, 23:45

All,

as you would have gavered from my last posting I now have the missing part for my engine.

I am having difficaltie in getting my flatty to fire into life. I have made up a wiring harness whch powers up the coil and starter motor. I can crank the engine over but all I get is it poping back through the carb. It sort of suggest distributor related but I am not convinced. As I under stand it there are no timming marks on the flatty just a mark which positions the timming gear to the crank. The distibutor on most flattys are set using a jig. as the drive dog is offset there is no possability of getting it 180deg out. So in practise it shuld be a simple slot in and bolt up job.

But my distributor is similer to the crab type with a vacuum brake on the side and I have marks on the side so that it can be ajusted once fitted. does anyone know what the timming should be set to on a V8. Does 4 deg before TDC sound about right. and if so how can I tell if I am at TDC wouthout taking the heads off!!

Any help gratfully recieved.

I have attached a photo of the engine and gearbox all mounted up in the frame ready to be run up.

Theres still a few little jobs to do but as soon as the main hull of the alligator comes back from being shot blasted and painted it will be going straight in.

Bryan

Alex Blair (RIP) · #2 23-06-05, 01:44

Quote:

Originally posted by Bryan
All,

as you would have gavered from my last posting I now have the missing part for my engine.

I am having difficaltie in getting my flatty to fire into life. I have made up a wiring harness whch powers up the coil and starter motor. I can crank the engine over but all I get is it poping back through the carb. It sort of suggest distributor related but I am not convinced. As I under stand it there are no timming marks on the flatty just a mark which positions the timming gear to the crank. The distibutor on most flattys are set using a jig. as the drive dog is offset there is no possability of getting it 180deg out. So in practise it shuld be a simple slot in and bolt up job.

But my distributor is similer to the crab type with a vacuum brake on the side and I have marks on the side so that it can be ajusted once fitted. does anyone know what the timming should be set to on a V8. Does 4 deg before TDC sound about right. and if so how can I tell if I am at TDC wouthout taking the heads off!!

Any help gratfully recieved.

I have attached a photo of the engine and gearbox all mounted up in the frame ready to be run up.

Theres still a few little jobs to do but as soon as the main hull of the alligator comes back from being shot blasted and painted it will be going straight in.

Bryan

Bryan
Sounds like you could use a maintenance manual..Tells you everything you wanted to know..all the specs and adjustments..
http://www.dana-nield.com/dnn/Defaul....com/dnn/blair
If it is a carrier,it is The UC-F1...If it is a CMP it is the MB-F1..
Contact me off line if you need manuals.

Max Hedges · #3 23-06-05, 03:44

Bryan,It looks like you have a 21 stud engine fitted with a british type distributor.Is your distributor cap ok and did you have a diagram on how to connect the the plug leads in the wright firing order.It's been many years since I have worked on one of those distributors
Max

Tony Smith · #4 23-06-05, 11:49

The Lucas distributor is basically the same firing order as the US/Canadian Crab dizzy. On other 21 stud engines with the Diver's Helmet distributor, all leads for the plugs on the left bank of cylinders come off the left cap, and all leads for the right bank come off the right cap, none cross over. With the Crab cap comes a trap for the uninitiated. Lead for No 3 Cyl is on the left bank of the cap and No 5 cyl is on the right side of the cap. The ignition leads run through their conduits and come out the inner side and cross over the inlet manifold. I can't see the leads crossing over in your pic, Bryan.
The following pic may assist:
PS Regarding the lack of timing marks, take all the plugs out except No1, remove the cap on the dizzy and turn the crank pulley. You should be getting compression somewhere when the rotor arm is near the 9 to 10 o'clock position. That will let you know if the Distributor is in phase or 180deg out.

Lynn Eades · #5 23-06-05, 12:25

Tony, you could be a handy bloke to have around, for anybody broken down in the middle of the Tanami (or anywhere else for that matter) Interesting and very useful picture you posted. Interesting in that genny and water pumps shown are double pulley, crank is single....artistic licence? Anyhow, have copied and filed it for future reference.
Thanks Digger.

Snowtractor · #6 23-06-05, 17:43

I don't mean the points the lads have been making but inside the distributor. Are they burnt or are they set right, NIgel Watson had a friend who's points died at an inopportune time.

Sean

Bryan · #7 23-06-05, 18:18

Tony, thanks for that, having a picture helps but mine apper to be correct as the cap is marked up with the cylinder numbers and two of my leads do cross over just above the top of the dissy.

I will keep tinkering and let you all know how I get on.

Thanks

Bryan

Bryan · #8 23-06-05, 23:08

All,

Well what a evening I have got to the bottom of why she wouldnt fire and it appers the rotar arm was 180 deg out. Basicly it ment taking the dissy abart and rotationg the distributor drive through 180 deg and reassembling. And what would you know she actually fires and runs and what a sound. Thats the first time she has run since 1972 when the prevouse owner parked the alligator up.

So two years of rebuilding have proven to be a great success. I only ran it for a few minuites this evening. but over the weekend I am planning on leaving it running for a lot longer. It makes such a diffrance having it bolted in a engine cradle. I have got full access to all areas without the restrictions of the hull getting in the way.

My thanks to everyone. You have made one very happy owner.

So untill the next time

Bryan

Alex Blair (RIP) · #9 24-06-05, 01:19

Quote:

Originally posted by Bryan
It makes such a diffrance having it bolted in a engine cradle. I have got full access to all areas without the restrictions of the hull getting in the way.

Bryan
Running your engine on a stand with no water and pump lubricant will make short work of your water pump seals.....and bearings.

Bryan · #10 24-06-05, 08:30

Alex,

I have connected the radiator and colent system up prior to running the engine so not to worry.

Thanks

Bryan

sapper740 · #11 25-06-05, 00:24

how can I tell if I am at TDC wouthout taking the heads off!!

Easiest thing in the world. Pull your spark plugs out, stick a cork in cylinder #1 and slowly rotate the engine until the cork pops out. Then you know that cylinder is starting it's compression stroke. Put a thin rod into the cylinder and when it stops rising, voila! T.D.C.

Lynn Eades · #12 25-06-05, 01:44

The pevious suggestion doesnt work so well on a flat head. the spark plug is positioned over the top of the valves, not over the cylinder. The Dodge people did it right. They put a plug in the cylinder head, but I'm not sure you can get a suitable rod or wire down the Ford. If you can then the best way to get it fairly accurately is to turn the crank back before tdc, a given distance on your rod/wire (say 2 inches) mark your flywheel. turn crank up over tdc and on until your rod/wire has disapeared down the hole the 2 inches again. mark your flywheel again. the halfway point will be a pretty accurate tdc if done properly. The marking of the flywheel has to be in relation to some point on the bell housing of course...... AND,... Hindsight dictates that this is best established before the heads go on. Thats my 2 cents worth