Relining E brake bands....

[Bob Carriere]

Latest resto costs.....

Just took in my emergency brake band for relining....standard 2 speed T-Case mounted E-Brake....... estimated cost $100 CDN

Also the brake band for the winch brake.... somewhat smaller but still a healthy $80 Cdn.

Parts had been sandblasted and phosphated...... it didn't change the price.....

Works out to approx. 65% supplies and the rest labour.

Should be ready in 4 working days at Ottawa Brake and Clutch.

Bob C.

[Grant Bowker]

So, are you having second thoughts about using the transfer case mounted brake instead of the rear axle style? But then you'd have to buy cables, so it's probably not all that different.

[Phil Waterman]

Bob- You are fortunate that the metal bands are in good condition. On mine the brake linings were good and the bands had rust holes so it was time to make new bands. Would have been easy with a metal roll unit but didn’t have one so it was wood blocking and duck bill spreader from the 10 hydraulic porta-power. But it work well once I riveted the old linings on the new backing band.

The price you are quoting are fair, by the time all was said and done I probably had a days work in each band.

Back to your question about setting up the brake booster, the steps in the manual are pretty good. That little adjustment bushing in the manual is critical to getting the adjustment correct. But do the preliminary set up on the bench not on the truck that way you can check for leaks easy see pictures below. I like to put a ball valve in the vacuum line during testing with the vacuum gage on the booster side. That way you can pull the vacuum close the valve and see how quickly you loose vacuum. I use a 15 inch power vacuum pump and a stethoscope to listen for leaks.

[Bob Carriere]

... I am going to play chicken and get the standard brake system to work first....... after the nightmare with Rob's MC I am not so sure we know what we are claiming to be doing....

If I can get the regular system to work than I will tackle the booster. DId you have to rebuild anything on the booster???

did you make yourself the little bushing needed to adjust the system???

Looking at picking up 4 tail lights and brackets for you on Saturday.....

Can you send me Ken's phone number so I can load up some parts for him... need to up date his wish list...

Bob

[Phil Waterman]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere
... I am going to play chicken and get the standard brake system to work first....... after the nightmare with Rob's MC I am not so sure we know what we are claiming to be doing....

If I can get the regular system to work than I will tackle the booster. DId you have to rebuild anything on the booster???

did you make yourself the little bushing needed to adjust the system???

Looking at picking up 4 tail lights and brackets for you on Saturday.....

Can you send me Ken's phone number so I can load up some parts for him... need to up date his wish list...

Bob

Hi Bob- If you are going to set up your brake before you put the body on then setting up brake system without the booster in place makes some sense. But you want to be sure that you get the booster pivot in place before you put the cab in place. I don’t understand why the problems with getting Rob’s master cylinder to work. Was it a sleeved? Only problem that I had on one of the master cylinders that I had sleeved was that rebuild kit didn’t let the little bleeder hole function correctly. Other than that the only leaks on the master cylinder were caused by the trying to reuse the copper washers once I realized that was the problem I got a stock of the washers and just replace them when ever I undo a connection.

Yes, I had to rebuild/clean the booster, I followed manual step by step taking the time to make the tools necessary to disassemble the booster. Replacing the boot on the booster is necessary, my replacement came from Sears Automotive, bellows cover for shock absorbers. Yes, turned the adjustment bushing on the lathe and added it the box of CMP tools, if you have problems finding the stock and I’ll make another.

Thanks for finding the tail lights. I’ve also hidden a modern set of tail lights behind the reflectors on the back of the Pattern 12.

Glad your going to make Weare Rally.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

HI Phil

Got you 4 tailights.... and brackets...

On Rob's brake system....... he did everything as per the book.... we are geting the brake lining moving..... leaks are now all addressed....... bleed the system until the bubbles were all gone.....still the pedal sinks slowly to the floor.

Rob deis assembled the MC again..... we repolished the brass sleeve insert suing a special home made tool using circles of 3M pads on a long bolt stud....... re assembled with the same results.

The small bleed hole in the MC was verified to be opened using one of the small oxy-acet tip cleaning wires....... so it is opened.

Could it be that the rod that enteres the MC.... the one with the ladder type construction ..... which is adjustable.... is out of wack???? I have had experienced wheel cylinders not releasing after installing a new MC of a dodge truck because the MC cylinder was not coming back far enough to release line pressure.

Could the brass sleeve be contributing to the fluid bypassing and preventing the pressure to build up....

By the way.....notwithstanding all the recent email..... I am staying committed to running silicone brake fluid..... probably the only time I will have to try it out on a new system..... if I don't like it will revert back to the usual stuff.

See you at the show.

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

Phil

Are you talking about the curly queue little device that hooks up to the back of the booster..???

Mine was already installed on the cross member I transplanted from the C60.........

I am looking at the possibility of installing the special booster MC "L" bracket with out all the linkage and run the standard unboosted system...... so I can convert later to the full booster......

I will do the convertion before I fully re assemble the body work.

Bob C.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere
HI Phil

....

Could it be that the rod that enteres the MC.... the one with the ladder type construction ..... which is adjustable.... is out of wack???? ......

Bob

I think you may have hit on the problem, how long is the push rod? I've found several of the master cylinders over the years, but I've always used the original push rod. Some of the shafts have been different lengths. Also, check on play at all the linkage pins as well as the cross shaft on the brake. I had to bushing the cross shaft on the brake peddle, Also check the location of the return springs on the peddle and linkages is all the play being taken up? When I first overhauled the brake system on my HUP it had about 1 of free travel before starting to apply the brakes. As time goes by even with adjustment of all the shoes that has increased to about two and half inches, I suspect that I will find that I have developed play in the peddle shaft.

[Bob Carriere]

....if the problem is internal leakage by means of the brass sleeve it is beyond our skills set...... resleeving in SS is the only solution.

The only thing left that has any possibility is the rod that enters the MC.

At this stage we are working on a bare frame so it is fairly easy to verify the linkage. We are also working the brake pedal by hand...... and even with our limited arm power we can floor the pedal......slowly sinking to the bottom stop.

Rob has done a fairly good job of keeping all the linkage tight with very little free play at this stage. He is using the same linkage rod that he had.... I hesitate to say "original" after 60 years of backyard fixin'.......... but all his parts compare favorably to all our other CMP examples. Will try lengthening the rod at first and remove a turn at a time to see if it makes any differences.

I suspect we have a "bum" master cyl........

Bob

Bob