F15 restoration

Keith Webb · #1 06-08-07, 02:19

Work has started in earnest on a F15 for Swiss Chris with the delivery of one of the donor F15s to my place at Eltham. This truck is likely to provide many small parts and one large one - the Canadian box.

Unfortunately much of the truck is too far gone for restoration so the majority of cab parts will come from other sources.

I've created a gallery of images on the Old CMP site.

Plushy · #2 06-08-07, 04:15

Keith could you take photos of the rear body /tray for me incase i have to build one for my F15A .Reference photos would make my job easier .

Keith Webb · #3 06-08-07, 05:03

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
Keith could you take photos of the rear body /tray for me incase i have to build one for my F15A .Reference photos would make my job easier .

But your F15A wouldn't have had one of these Canadian bodies.

What you need is a good old Holden-built Aussie body like this:

Link

Plushy · #4 06-08-07, 06:40

still learning to identify things . So what are the differences between the two ?

Keith Webb · #5 06-08-07, 06:56

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
still learning to identify things . So what are the differences between the two ?

This F15 is being restored in South Australia by Russell Jenkins.

Link

Hanno Spoelstra · #6 06-08-07, 09:45

Quote:

Originally posted by Keith Webb
Work has started in earnest on a F15 for Swiss Chris with the delivery of one of the donor F15s to my place at Eltham.

Keith,

Good to see you use a Ford to tow a Ford. Would hate to see those Chev drivers proving their point

H.

Keith Webb · #7 06-08-07, 09:59

I suppose we could have used the ToyoChev but the Ford was in front of it so it was used... also as a short wheelbase it was better to get around corners... also it runs better... and sounds better...

Max Hedges · #8 15-08-07, 10:59

Keith we have that 13cab from New Zealand which has the Canadian floor in it, I will also check on the condition of the cab back to see if it's any good.
Max

Keith Webb · #9 15-08-07, 11:26

Thanks Max. I think the only bit I'll need is the driver's side floor as this one has had some sort of lever arrangement attached. The rear piece is of course different between a 3-tonner and a F15 because there's no transfer case aperture.

Be good if the cab back is OK.

Max Hedges · #10 19-08-07, 06:02

Keith this one turns over and had 35 psi oil pressure running on the starter moter. It also has 81 cast on the block, does that make it a 90 hp engine, any how we will pull the heads off and have a look.
Max

Keith Webb · #11 19-08-07, 07:27

I'll have to come up with the trailer I think!

Thanks, Max

zemsi · #12 19-08-07, 09:12

... ohh, just spotted this new thread

As you all now probably now, I'm getting my first Blitz, a Canadian built F15!

If everything goes well, I'll pick it up at Corowa 2009 (Year of the Blitz) and drive it to there to be part of the raised World Record

I have to say thank you to those 3 guys, without them it wouldn't be possible:

Keefy: Head of Restoring, expert, parts collector, organiser

Euan: Technical Advice

Last but not least, Max: Started my passion for Blitzes. Engine deliverer. Man behind the scenes and good mind behind it for all those small nitty gritty things.

So, mates, thank you very much for the hard work you're putting into this project to making it possible!

Greetings
Chris

Max Hedges · #13 20-08-07, 00:28

there is also this one but it turns and then locks up, the gear gox maybe one we could use

Keith Webb · #14 20-08-07, 00:33

Quote:

Originally posted by Max Hedges
there is also this one but it turns and then locks up, the gear gox maybe one we could use

Looks like it's come from a 'restored' MCP Ford truck.

We'll be looking for a good radiator too...

Max Hedges · #15 20-08-07, 02:39

Quote:

Originally posted by Max Hedges
Keith this one turns over and had 35 psi oil pressure running on the starter moter. It also has 81 cast on the block, does that make it a 90 hp engine, any how we will pull the heads off and have a look.
Max

I removed one of the heads no rust in the bores and is 3 1/16th with 45 thou pistons, valves seem ok
Max

Max Hedges · #16 20-08-07, 07:00

Perhaps when Euan comes this way next he better call in and pick up some V8s to take home
Max

Max Hedges · #17 20-08-07, 10:50

found another one to try, it has 3 3/16th bore
Max

Max Hedges · #18 21-08-07, 02:46

the 1st engine number is AVR89020
2nd engine number is 4G9250F and is fitted with a gearbox which has the number 2G39112F on it, this engine also has aloy pistons and free from rust in the bore. You better hook that trailer up Keith and take them away before I get to attached to them
Max

Keith Webb · #19 21-08-07, 03:52

Quote:

Originally posted by Max Hedges
You better hook that trailer up Keith and take them away before I get to attached to them
Max

Don't worry, Max, I will!

Looks like a '43 engine with a '41 gearbox.

Plushy · #20 21-08-07, 06:02

Max can you pm how much you would want for all the accesories of the motor that doesnt turn ? I have got a motor for rebuilding but its missing the Distributor ,carby,alternator, starter motor and their brackets . Or if any one else has them can they pm me please .

Cheers Plushy

Pedr · #21 21-08-07, 07:24

So what are you looking for....there are three different types of distributor, two different types of water pump, a number of different type heads, etc, etc. All fitting onto three different blocks.

Just to throw a spanner in your works

Sorry

Pedr

Plushy · #22 21-08-07, 07:40

Pedr i am after what ever looks correct for a 1943 motor if that fails what ever makes it start and stop

Max Hedges · #23 21-08-07, 13:11

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
Max can you pm how much you would want for all the accesories of the motor that doesnt turn ? I have got a motor for rebuilding but its missing the Distributor ,carby,alternator, starter motor and their brackets . Or if any one else has them can they pm me please .

Cheers Plushy

I should have those bits here, you better hop in the car with Keith and come and have a look.
Max

Plushy · #24 21-08-07, 13:46

Max while i think of it whats the best way to remove the pulleys from the front of the crank ? i cant seem to get mine to come off .

Max Hedges · #25 21-08-07, 14:07

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
Max while i think of it whats the best way to remove the pulleys from the front of the crank ? i cant seem to get mine to come off .

usually they come off with a tap with a hammer, or try a puller but put a short bolt in the end of the shaft so you don't damage the thread.
Max

Max Hedges · #26 21-08-07, 14:18

Chris the engine we picked out for you is looking good so far, tomorow I will put fresh oil in and give it a run with the starter motor to see if we have oil pressure.
Max

zemsi · #27 21-08-07, 16:03

... excellent, thank you Max!

Looking forward to see the "engine starter video" on youtube ;-)

Alex Blair (RIP) · #28 21-08-07, 16:13

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
Max while i think of it whats the best way to remove the pulleys from the front of the crank ? i cant seem to get mine to come off .

James ..Heat up the hub of the pully around the shaft before you try to pull it..This will expand the hub and it should pop right off..Try to direct the heat away from the shaft...
The red wrench is your best friend when it comes to pulling rusty old truck parts apart.

Plushy · #29 21-08-07, 16:44

Whoops i should have been more clear its the Nut on the front of the pulleys that`s the problem , i am thinking i might just take out the whole crank and then have another crack at the nut .

Alex Blair (RIP) · #30 21-08-07, 17:56

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
Whoops i should have been more clear its the Nut on the front of the pulleys that`s the problem , i am thinking i might just take out the whole crank and then have another crack at the nut .

Same advise ,James...Heat up the nut..It should come off in place..