Rear Brake Drum Removal ???

Plushy · #1 21-09-07, 11:31

Hi Guys ,
Need some advice i am trying to remove the passenger side rear Brake Drum and i cant get the bugger to move the top to adjusting bolts for the Brake shoes are missing would this stop the drum from sliding off or is there something i am missing ? i have removed the axle and the front bearing as well as the two retaining nuts . any advie /help is appreciated !

cheers Plushy

Keith Webb · #2 21-09-07, 12:22

You mean the two adjusters either side of the backing plate are missing???

That's tough - and surprising if it's the case. Usually you can just back them off and the hub/drum comes off easily. If the drum is very worn there will be a lip which the shoes may be hiding behind.

Not sure whether fiddling with the anchor pins at the bottom is going to make much difference either. Is the drum moving at all? Once it is off a little you can get a large screwdriver in either side between the backing plate and drum to carefully lever it off. If the shoes are adjusted too far out you'll feel it spring back when you let the pressure off.

Last resort is of course the sledge hammer to demolish the drums.

Plushy · #3 21-09-07, 13:02

Hi Keith ,
yes i do meant the two adjusters at the top.
I can get the drum to rotate using a bar between the wheel studs but it takes a bit of effort , i will try levering it from the back and see if that helps , last resort will be breaking out the plasma cutter but i hope to avoid that .

Thanks for the help

Lynn Eades · #4 21-09-07, 13:32

Can you undo the nuts off of the bottom anchors and then punch them back inside. this should help. Id say the wheel cyl pistons have seized and then the rust has grown, and tightened the whole lot up. This along with a drum that is worn with a lip, is going to make it tough.
Good luck!
Cheers, Lynn.

Alex Blair (RIP) · #5 21-09-07, 15:59

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
Hi Keith ,
yes i do meant the two adjusters at the top.
I can get the drum to rotate using a bar between the wheel studs but it takes a bit of effort , i will try levering it from the back and see if that helps , last resort will be breaking out the plasma cutter but i hope to avoid that .

Thanks for the help

James..
Try heating the drum up with the oxy/actylene using a spreader flame before you demolish it...the heat may expand the drum enough to get it over the wear rings in the drum edges..once you get it hot enough,get a prybar on either side of the drum and get the tension on it and then use a air impact hammer on the drum ...with the heat ...vibration..and pry tension on the drum it should come of in salvageable condition.....six more asbestos hands would also be invaluable...good luck..

Plushy · #6 21-09-07, 16:44

Success !! with a combination of levering and pushing the bottom anchors back inside , i managed to get the drum off . And there was a whole lot of crap inside rust and silt and cobwebs and more rust , i gave the inside of the drum a light rub over with 180 grit sandpaper and the surface isn`t pitted its just got some crud stuck to it hopefully it wont need machining .

Can you still get replacement brake pads in oz ? the brake pads still have plenty of meat on them but i am not sure how much compared to original ?

Cheers

And thanks to everyone for the tips . oh and theres always a cold beer or twelve for anyone that comes around to help work on the Blitz .

hrpearce · #7 21-09-07, 22:27

rear lining thickness, Prim. .320"- .340"
Sec. .330"- .340"
Plushy when I needed new linings I cheated I took these measurements to Repco and had shoes bonded it's the easiest way to go.

Tony Smith · #8 22-09-07, 00:05

I also had the same problem with crud inside the drum seizing up the works. I took out the axleshaft, loosened the wheel bearing nut, the put the wheel back on and tightened up the wheel nuts. Judicious application of pressure (alternating between front of wheel to back of wheel) forced the Hub/Drum/Wheel
off the spindle.

Tony Smith · #9 22-09-07, 00:07

Inside was somewhat corroded, with small components dissolved in a heap!

Tony Smith · #10 22-09-07, 00:13

Quote:

Originally posted by Plushy
Can you still get replacement brake pads in oz ? the brake pads still have plenty of meat on them but i am not sure how much compared to original ?

The OH&S Nazis have made it ILLEGAL to sell, advertise or install ANY brake components containing Asbestos

, but as that's just about all that comes up for sale at swap meets, who's to know? The original shoes had rivetted linings, but I'm sure a brake workshop could do some bonded linings on your shoes with Vanilla-safe, non-asbestos material. If your current linings are not scored or unevenly worn, I'd re-use them.

Plushy · #11 22-09-07, 03:52

Thanks for everyones help , i will try and reuse the linings as they have enough meat on them . Does anyone know where i can get two replacement top Adjusters bolts ?

cheers Plushy