Fixing a flat!

[Harry Moon]

IMG-20120705-00113.jpg
I've done this on the road with a johnson bar and a piece of pipe extension but much easier at home with an impact gun.

[Tony Wheeler]

Hi there Harry,

I noticed your 10.50 x 16 directional tyres and was wondering if they're available new over there?

BTW that's a serious mouse trap you've built!

Cheers,
Tony

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Hi there Harry,

I noticed your 10.50 x 16 directional tyres and was wondering if they're available new over there?

BTW that's a serious mouse trap you've built!

Cheers,
Tony

Yep I picked mine up from Wallace Wade in the states. I think he will ship anywhere. I had the advantage of meeting up with him at the MVPA convention when it was in Portland Oregon. He has a regular ad in Supply Line and still list the tires as a special run. A couple of dealers do list them but WW seems to have the best price. I've 8-9000Kms on these ones so far.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Harry Moon

Yep I picked mine up from Wallace Wade in the states. I think he will ship anywhere.

Thanks very much for that Harry, I shall investigate shipping costs.

Cheers,
Tony

[hrpearce]

Scott that is simillar to the bead breaker I use, the thread isn't long enough for blitz rims so I have to use blocks for a second push. Vicki bought mine through the local John Deer dealer and it cost over $400 over six years ago. It is also great to use on tractors as I can break the bead with the wheel still on the tractor, saves a lot of heavy lifting.

[Grant Bowker]

If thinking of buying, check Amazon.com for the model number. It looks like they are available for $140-$155 - new.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

They have a distributor in Australia.

http://www.antiquetyres.com.au/

So you may be able to order them through this company.

Brilliant, thanks very much Scott, I shall try them next week and report back.

[Bob Carriere]

When you are originally restoring your CMP rims take the time to carefully clean the inside of the rim to bare metal and paint with high gloss paint.

I have used POR 15 glossy black after sandblasting....... used regular tire shop tire lub snotty stuff on the bead........ removing a tire now is relatively easy....and so is the installation...... all in the anticipation of having to remove them like Harry pointed out.... a little zinc based Never Sieze on the studs is a blessing month later on the side of the road.

Bob

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Nah, real men fix a flat like this!

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Nah, real men fix a flat like this!

Thats for getting the beed set on tubless tires so you can pump them up. It works! I had to mount some tubless tires on my race car about 30 years ago and after an hour of frustration with an airhose trying to get the bead to hold up long enough to get the air started a helpful friend helped out with some starting fluid!
With a CMP rim I've had to limp about 200 meters down the road on an absolute flat to get to a safe spot and the beed stayed securely on that Rim!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Harry

Knock on wood I've never had a flat on the road with any of the CMPs that I knew about. Discovered on all three trucks that original tires did not hold air but then again with the run flat tires didn't even know.

Without the tire irons there would not be much chance of changing a tube or patching one. But with them rims clean and painted I've had pretty good luck braking the beads free with a pair of tire irons to just keep walking around the tire a couple of times and the rim comes free.

So did you have the tire irons and brake the tire down on the side of the road or change to the spare?

Cheers Phil

[rob love]

I just picked up 9 of those tires on the weekend and Derk Derin and myself spent today installing 5 of them on the C15TA in the Shilo museum. Should have the job finished tomorrow. They certainly look the part, far better than the michelin radials that were presently on it.

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Harry

Knock on wood I've never had a flat on the road with any of the CMPs that I knew about. Discovered on all three trucks that original tires did not hold air but then again with the run flat tires didn't even know.

Without the tire irons there would not be much chance of changing a tube or patching one. But with them rims clean and painted I've had pretty good luck braking the beads free with a pair of tire irons to just keep walking around the tire a couple of times and the rim comes free.

So did you have the tire irons and brake the tire down on the side of the road or change to the spare?

Cheers Phil

Nope. Just pulled the 2 half's apart like in the picture, put the wood block on one side, pulled the tube and liner out of the middle, moved the block to the other side and pull the tube and liner all the way out.
Reversing it I put the tube and liner in with the valve stem side first, clamped the valve stem loosely to the outside of its hole, pushed the tube and liner in half way round then remove the block and place it on the other side and finish feeding the tube and liner in the rest of the way.
i put some air in it at this point and move it around to settle it in place then take the block out and lay it all on its side. poke in from the middle with an old broom stick all the way round using the crowbar to lift the sides apart to save my digits. let all the air out and then make sure the half's coming together with a solid "ring" sound, metal to metal no pinched rubber .
Tighten up the red bolts to torque, blow the dirt off and touch up the red paint.
Never break the bead.
My flat history.
1 Fathers day in the park we were parked next to/on the old farm house foundations that had burned down. That is except the nails.
2 and 3 were caused by the commercial truck outfit I went to out of town when I bought those directional tires. They caught the liner and tube between the 2 half's and between a year and two years they went down like a fire hose! after the second one I took the other 3 apart and a third one had the liner but not the tube pinched. (Do it yourself if you want it done right!)
4 was the cheep Chinese replacement tube I had to buy to fix number 3 above on the road (end of the day i did have a spare) I had a patch kit but a 2 foot rip was a little to much so now I carry good quality spare tubes.

[Harry Moon]

With flat # 2 I was killing myself trying to jack up the back of my loaded truck with the original screw jack. Had to be all authentic right. Garage pulled a floor jack over so they wouldn't have to bury me on the side of the road.
Flat #3 with my new bottle jack, didn't have enough travel so I blocked it up with the wood block then lowered and shoveled a load of gravel under the jack and lifted it clear.
I now have a bigger bottle jack with enough travel to lift the truck up from rim to a fully inflated tire.
Tubes, that cheep Chinese tube was only half the weight of a decent North American tube!
Put a dab of grease on the threads of the red nuts it will save you grief and some sweat if you are doing this without an impact gun.
Remember your right nuts from your left nuts!!
If you hear the air-brake hose let go and you hear that escaping high pressure air-hose... remember very quickly you don't have air-bakes and get your speed down as fast as you can. It will take all your strength to drive strait at 1 mph to get to a safe place but you'll end up in the bush's or worse if you ignore that sound.
1 and 5 were slow leaks detected over time. 2 and 3 city speeds and got slowed down but 3 did put me into the middle lane with the right front down to the rim in under 5 seconds.
4 was lucky in that I just stopped after a long fast downhill on the highway....