![]() |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Made this discovery on the right hand rear axle a couple of weekends ago. Very upsetting.
All the studs were quite OK when I put them in during the restoration. Had all the right washers and nuts. I havent checked the wheel bearings for play yet but I intend to and will post result of findings. I have since drilled out the broken studs and replaced them with ones from a Studebaker rear axle. Exactly the same threads just the Stude ones where slightly longer on the nut thread. This side had a slightly twisted axle and I replaced it with one from Max's which was and still is in perfect order. Anyone had a problem like this before??
__________________
Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Never happens with a Chev!!!!
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
See, too much power!.
__________________
kenney |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Do you have the "keepers" underneath or lock washers? The lifting sling plate should float a little.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I take it Harry the keepers are the conical shaped washers? If they are, then yes they are there.
I agree with you, they would spread the load on the studs. As Ken said....the problems that arise with having the right amount of cylinders under the hood....too much grunt!!! ![]()
__________________
Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
just looking at the shots, and wondering if the other ones left were still tight. In the first photo,is the hub look a bit discolored or is it not washed or maybe a little heat.the second photo the stud at 8 o'clock looks to have been broken 1st. If the bearings checked out good maybe try to mount a dial indicator to the end of the axle tube (where the adjuster nut is) and check if any or how much runout there is in the face of the hub with the other studs out when you spin the wheel (hub) should even be able to leave the wheel on (bloody heavy buggers) hope its of some help other wise i agree it's the brute hp of the sv ford, maybe got a 4.00"merc crank in her
![]()
__________________
Cameron Reed, AKA Chopper |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi Tony
Ran in to a similar issue on my `41 C60L one wheel had one broken stud but the rest of the wedge keepers, studs and nuts didn't look good. So I took a sample down to the local heavy truck parts place stock items off the shelf. Bought enough to both sides of the truck and just replace them all. Think the wedge keepers came in bags of 25. Plan to take a real careful look at all the axles bolts on all the trucks now. Sounds like yours all failed at the same time and disappear instead of one at a time. Out of curiosity which side right or left? I'll guess left. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Hi Tony,
Did you use any sealer on the face between shaft and hub? I know silicone is popular now, but I avoid it on places like this because it tends to go off before you get the flange up tight and you end up with a thick membrane of silicone and this would allow the two parts to fret and shear the studs. Just a thought anyway. regards, Richard
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
![]() |
|
|