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  #1  
Old 23-12-09, 21:58
Hanno Spoelstra's Avatar
Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Default F15A WIP - some questions

Finally got round to do some work on my F15A today.

Q1) Left rear brake back plate: should I take it off or is this stage of dismantling far enough?

After I took this pic I took the wheel brake cylinder off, it will be replaced by a new one. Bearing race is still good, edge of seal race seems to have a burr which needs smoothing.

Q2) Which one is better? The leather or rubber seal?

Thanks,
Hanno

P.S.: sorry for the quality of the pictures (cell phone thingy).
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  #2  
Old 23-12-09, 22:08
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Left hand axle shaft.

Beautiful condition, except for some unevenness where the inner axle oil seal sits?

Hopefully will smooth out with polishing as well.

- Hanno
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  #3  
Old 23-12-09, 22:18
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Wip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra View Post
Finally got round to do some work on my F15A today.

Q1) Left rear brake back plate: should I take it off or is this stage of dismantling far enough?

After I took this pic I took the wheel brake cylinder off, it will be replaced by a new one. Bearing race is still good, edge of seal race seems to have a burr which needs smoothing.

Q2) Which one is better? The leather or rubber seal?

Thanks,
Hanno

P.S.: sorry for the quality of the pictures (cell phone thingy).
Hi Hanno

Good to see you getting your hands dirty!

I wouldn't take the backing plate off unless there is a good reason to do it.
Also I'd think the Rawhide seals would not be as effective as modern ones.
Did you have the special hub nut socket or did you use a hammer and cold chisel in the manner of many mechanics before you?
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  #4  
Old 23-12-09, 22:31
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Webb View Post
Good to see you getting your hands dirty!
Yes, I should do it more often. . .

Quote:
I wouldn't take the backing plate off unless there is a good reason to do it.
Also I'd think the Rawhide seals would not be as effective as modern ones.
Did you have the special hub nut socket or did you use a hammer and cold chisel in the manner of many mechanics before you?
Thanks for the tips! Yes, I did invest in the special 8-sided 3-inch socket (bought a NOS one from Dirk). Luckily no signs of chisels being used before.

Hanno
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  #5  
Old 24-12-09, 00:20
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default The inner seals are available

If your inner seal has a CR number it is probably still available. On the C60S after the nut keeper excitement the inner seal was damaged on my truck but the part number was still readable on the seal. It was a stock seal 3 day delivery.

Cheers Phil
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  #6  
Old 24-12-09, 09:08
lynx42 lynx42 is offline
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Hey Hanno,
I'm not highjacking the thread,

BUT,

A MERRY CHRISTMAS.
from Rick and Jill.
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  #7  
Old 24-12-09, 12:48
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynx42 View Post
I'm not highjacking the thread,

BUT,

A MERRY CHRISTMAS.
Hey Rick and Jill,

No problem,

AND,

A MERRY CHRISTMAS AND ALL THE BEST FOR 2010!

Hanno
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  #8  
Old 24-12-09, 12:53
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
If your inner seal has a CR number it is probably still available. On the C60S after the nut keeper excitement the inner seal was damaged on my truck but the part number was still readable on the seal. It was a stock seal 3 day delivery.
Phil,

Here's hoping I do not need to replace the inner axle oil seal (C01Q-4702-C) as I would have to dismantle and split the entire axle.

For the hub inner oil seal (BB-1175 C / GM-1798517) I have both a rubber and leather version to choose from.

Somewhere I read a leather seal will withstand surface irregularities better than the rubber type?

- Hanno
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