cmp cab frame required

kevin powles · #1 04-03-12, 17:20

Hi, Can anyone supply a complete cab frame for a Chevrolet C15, rust free, any leads will be appreciated. within the uk or europe.

Thanks kevin.

Hanno Spoelstra · #2 05-03-12, 21:00

Hi Kevin,

Did you buy that C15A off eBay? There are some differences between the C15 4x2 and C15A 4x4, that's why I'm asking.

Hanno

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin powles

Hi, Had a look at this old girl today. I think if you tried to load it it would fold in half, aparently the barn had no roof!.
kev.

cletrac (RIP) · #3 05-03-12, 21:47

I assume he wants the angle iron arches for an 11 or 12 cab and there's quite a difference between the 4x2 and 4x4. It has to do with how sharp the wheels turn. The inner sheet metal is different too.

kevin powles · #4 05-03-12, 22:56

Hi, Hanno and David, Yes I bought that one, I have attached a picture from 1991 of what she once looked like, I guess 21 years of standing outside unused has taken its toll. Firstly what attracted me to this machine was the tow bar, I will remove it and use it on the 'Stacey Towing Attachement' on my carrier, Secondly is the number plate '112FCE', This is worth more in the uk than the truck itself!. To be able to remove and sell this number the vehicle needs to be taxed and tested, The plan is to remove the cab and buck, commission the engine, driveline and brakes, get it MOT'ed, get the taxation class changed to 'historic'...............then put the number on 'retention'. What I hope to end up with is a CMP truck which works out to be a very economical investment.

So looking for a new cab as this one I think is behond repair, I have a fellow digging out the trucks history and an article of when it was first restored many years ago.

kevin.

Hanno Spoelstra · #5 05-03-12, 23:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin powles

I have a fellow digging out the trucks history and an article of when it was first restored many years ago.

Kevin,

That's a good one for CMPs where are they now?!

Here's hoping you investment turns out well plus another CMP is saved.

Hanno

Marc van Aalderen · #6 06-03-12, 19:19

Kevin,

I understand 21 years outside taking their toll. I do not understand a previous owner(s) leaving a nice truck like this one outside for that period. It's barbaric....

Cheers,

kevin powles · #7 06-03-12, 23:42

Hi, Can anyone tell me the style of cab I need to replace this one ?, cab12, 11 ???. It arrives tomorrow first job is to see if the engine is free, going to try to start it up and see whats needed mechanically, Is the cab easy to remove?, just bolted on??.

kev.

cletrac (RIP) · #8 07-03-12, 01:01

It's a Cab 13 4wd C15A.

jason meade · #9 07-03-12, 03:05

Holy crap where was it left in a salt mine...there had to be a small about of body filler in that 21 years ago to fall apart like that...I thought salt on the roads here was bad...lol

Keith Orpin · #10 07-03-12, 14:26

OMG !. How could anyone be so heartless to leave suce a nice looking Chevy outside, to face the elements, unprotected for so long. Still, hopefully, Kevin will sort her out. It looks like she is a late production 13 cab, as she has sling plates on the front axle. Be interesting to see some more shots of her, i.e. dash etc when you get chance.
You asked about removal of the cab, all fairly straight forward, it should be all bolted/rusted together. Remove the dog house over the engine inside the cab, unbolt and remove the doors and floor plates, gear lever gaitors etc and wing sections first, followed by removal of any wiring which may still be present on the front cowl (watch you don't damage the rad, if it's still fitted), then the top half of the roof, which is bolted to the top outer windscreen frame and waist line of the lower and upper rear panel. Now unbolt and remove the outer windscreen frame (you have to lift this up). Remove the lower back panel, and you should be left with the angle iron archbar frame work and floor frame work. Disconnect the fuel lines and any earthing straps, that may be there. The floor frame work will be bolted either side of the chassis, more or less in line with the front axle, and though a spring arrangement at the back and center of the cab. Find yourself a couple of willing helpers and lift the floor section away.
It sounds a lot, but 1/2 a day should see the front end removed
Hope this helps.
Good luck with her, and keep us all posted/updated
Regards
Keith

Phil Waterman · #11 07-03-12, 15:54

Hi Kevin

Take heart it can be restored, being from the pictures relatively complete it is a good candidate for restoration. Though you originally asked about a cab frame my experience has been that it really is not the frame of the cab but more the sheet metal which on CMPs relatively simple with some of the curve pieces as exceptions. The cab top is the hardest part, but as the truck can be enjoyed with that removed, leave it for last. Get the critter running do the work to make it safe to drive it on the road and start enjoying it while you hunt for a replacement cab top. Of course if you can find a donor cab in good, better condition that will be a huge jump on restoration process.

Cheers Phil

kevin powles · #12 07-03-12, 17:45

Hi, Have pressure washed the truck today, the chassis is absolutly solid, removed all the rubbish in the back, their is a makers plate on the rear buck, i will photograph it, something to do with wireless use. I have know looked at the cab construction and will start dismantling, what i do need is a new metal panel for the headlight on the drivers side, i think the nose cone can be saved. The engine is stuck, plugs out and open to ideas on freeing the pistons off. The rear buck wood work floor is all rotton but its an easy repair, wheels turn freely, still 6 volts on this one, checker floor plate in the cab is all solid.

I need to pump the tyres up also, what pressure should they be ??.

pictures attached.

kevin

Ben · #13 07-03-12, 21:11

Hat off...... If four carriers weren't enough to keep you busy now you've got a truck!! Does the Mrs know about this one? :-))

Ben

Jack Innes · #14 07-03-12, 23:39

If the engine is just stuck from sitting & there is no great evidence of rust on the plugs you might try putting some oil or penetrating oil and some Oil of Wintergreen in each cylinder. Let it stand for as long as possible then carefully try to rotate the flywheel either way with a good pry bar on the ring gear teeth from below. You should first remove the rocker cover & see that all of the valves are free - The older Chevrolet engines tend to stick their valves, then on getting the crank shaft turning the push rods will bend or the rockers can break.

Bob Carriere · #15 08-03-12, 04:28

Be careful..... they can look good but blow like a shotgun......

In good shape they can handle 50 PSI but play safe....you can roll it around easily at 15 to 20 pounds....the tire carcass will take a lot to flex and carry a lot of weight even with just 5 pounds in the tires.... check the side walls outside and on the inside for cracking....

For driving around 35 pounds unloaded would be good......

Bob

TCLARK · #16 08-03-12, 06:17

Careful to check it out before starting . Some
engines will run and then seize from bearing
degradation. Sometimes better to check the
bearing first.

kevin powles · #17 13-03-12, 22:58

Hi, I have filled the cylinders with duck oil and removed the rear buck and front nose, one of the rear brake drums is stuck on. I have a question regarding the steel pressure vessel mounted in the passanger side glove box position, whats is it for?. One pipe to it leads to the inlet manifold through a diaphram device, this steel container was found full of water when removed, I am guessing its some kind a vacuum resovoir perhaps for the brake system

.

Bob Carriere · #18 14-03-12, 03:43

Any pictures....? may be to help with the wipers....

Is the truck equipped with a brake booster underneath and connected to the master cylinder....?

Curious??

Bob

kevin powles · #19 15-03-12, 23:48

Hi, The strip down is going well, will upload some photo's soon, one thing to mention is at the moment after 20 years of standing she wont go into any gear, engine remains stuck, havent tried to turn the engine other than on the handle, will follow advice on the pushrod inspection first. I thought possibly the clutch could be stuck on the flywheel, rear and front axles turn freely, passanger side rear wheel also stuck.

Any ideas on the gear selection problem would help.

thanks kevin.

kevin powles · #20 17-03-12, 23:42

Hi, Visited the previous owner today, He has recently had a stroke so was unable to tell me very much about the vehicle, but I have gathered the truck was laid up due to a top end engine problem, so the head is coming off next week, Can anyone tell me if the sump will come off with the engine in situ?.

thanks kev.

Phil Waterman · #21 18-03-12, 15:34

Hi Kevin

Yes, I believe you should be able to drop the sump in situ? I have dropped the sump on my C60S. Watch out though, because even when you have drained the pan it still holds a lot of oil up in the troughs. It is also heavy and awkward. Remember to pull the dip stick out it gets in the way, you need to pull the pan down a little over half inch to clear the oil line tube fitting so that it doesn't get bent.

The 2nd time I dropped the pan I had learned and replace four of the pan bolts with 1" long bolts on the corners. Then I removed the rest of the pan bolts. Then used a putty knife to release the gasket all the way around. If you have a floor jack you might want to put that under the lower sump once the pan is completely loose while you remove the last bolts. The jack will help balance the the pan as you bring it down clear of the front axle and drive shaft.

If your engine has the original deep sump pan, you can tell by looking to see if there is a seam about 3 inches up the sump, the oil pump and pickup screen actually sit down in the lower sump and will tend to catch on the sides of the upper section. The deep sump pans were made by cutting a hole in the bottom of a regular pan and then soldering a second bottom section on. The bottom of the upper pan serves a purpose in helping to prevent the oil from sloshing away from the oil pick up in steep operation or rough terrain.

Cheers Phil

kevin powles · #22 19-03-12, 23:10

Hi, Front cab was completley removed today, noticed the rear mounting bolt spring was broken. Continued to powerwash oil/dirt off, windscreen and frame is repairable as is the cab floor, plan is to grit blast and have zinc coated aswell as the archers and windscreen frame.

Looking ahead I was wondering has anyone ever used a modern day brake bleeder, the type which connects to your car tyre, If I was to connect this to the resovoir and seal the connection, could I then bleed off from each brake as you would a normal car brake system, or can someone supply the correct bleeding tool as in the workshop manual.

kev. thanks for the advice on the sump removal, will give it a try.

kevin powles · #23 20-03-12, 21:04

Hi, Cylinder head removed today, all checked ok, no cracks, cylinder head grit blasted cleaned and primed ready for rebuild, all valves and gear in very good condition.

A couple of negative points : No thermostat in the housing, engine stuck because the two rear bores have had water in them over the years. fourth cylinder from the front had some gouges in the bores, I suspect the truck was parked up because of this 20 years ago, not sure what caused this, any ideas??.

Also the thermostatic valve built into the exhaust manifold has been welded shut and the manifold welded to the intake manifold, so basically the whole thermostatic valve has been disabled. Is this common?, perhaps a mod done to other trucks, Anyone come across this before?, I need to know before I start refurbishing both manifolds.

Phil Waterman · #24 20-03-12, 23:53

Hi Kevin

I've inserted my thoughts in a different font as this seemed the most direct way to respond clearly to your questions.

"Hi, Cylinder head removed today, all checked ok, no cracks, cylinder head grit blasted cleaned and primed ready for rebuild, all valves and gear in very good condition." Depending on the condition of the valves and the seats I suspect that a complete valve job with new guides may be worth the effort in the long run but determine the condition of the rest of the engine first

"A couple of negative points : No thermostat in the housing," Not a big deal to get a new one, but might be and indication that the engine was running hot "engine stuck because the two rear bores have had water in them over the years." this damage might hone out "fourth cylinder from the front had some gouges in the bores," this one maybe more of a problem from the from the picture it looks like the gouge is curved at the top, is this toward the front or rear of the engine? If so it might be that a wrist-pin has gotten loose I suspect the truck was parked up because of this 20 years ago, not sure what caused this, any ideas??.

Also the thermostatic valve built into the exhaust manifold has been welded shut and the manifold welded to the intake manifold, so basically the whole thermostatic valve has been disabled. Is this common?, perhaps a mod done to other trucks, Anyone come across this before?, I need to know before I start refurbishing both manifolds. " First time I've heard of somebody welding one open, very common to find them stuck open. Not a real problem under most driving conditions, will tend to make the engine run rough when cold but the tight engine compartment on a CMP generally takes care of that.

Now as to the over all condition of the engine, you have not shown anything yet that would say the engine can not be rebuilt. Have you pulled the pan yet?

Cheers Phil

Alex van de Wetering · #25 21-03-12, 00:29

Kevin,

Good to see the project will get another chance! I agree with the others that it always brakes my heart to see previously restored trucks end up in a sad condition. I remember seeing an Austin K3(?) on HMVF, someones pride and joy about 30 years ago. When the original owner asked, it was soon discovered that the truck still existed, but it was now being used as a parts truck due to the sad condition it is in today.

I don't know if it helps, but a guy here in Holland is offering a Ford F60L cab frame, front clip and some other parts. Clip is pretty rusted, but frame seems to be good. Is it just a matter of removing the extra brace in the frame to convert Ford into Chev.....or is there more than meets the eye? And what about wheel wells on a 3 Ton truck compared with a 15cwt?

Alex

kevin powles · #26 21-03-12, 00:53

Hi Phil, Going to drop the pan tomorrow or thursday, I would like to change out the valves and seats but I dont want to brake the bank on engine parts. I think you are right about the piston pin causing the bore damage. I also want to turn this project round this spring/summer and have it on the road asap. The engine was overhauled in 1947 and has +40 thou on the main and big ends, bore is standard.

kev.