Engine Rebuild

[gary_bath_jr]

Hey All

I am rebuilding my C15's 216 and would like to know what everyone here used to clean the old paint off.

I have a limited budget so taking it to a pro to give it an acid bath is out of the question, if the acid is cheap enough and I am able to get it myself I would consider it, however did you simply cover intake and exhaust etc and sandblast or use a wire wheel on a hand held grinder?

Thanks for any info
Gary

[chris vickery]

When you say you are "rebuilding" them, does this mean you are tearing the engines down or is it just an exterior cosmetic cleanup you are doing?
If it is a full rebuild then a proper hot tanking is in order to get the block totally degreased and descaled.

[David Dunlop]

Gary, I would agree with Chris. Depends on which option you are looking at utilizing. But personally, I would not put a sandblaster to an engine at all. The risk of driving grit into some hidden part where it could later jump up and bite me in the ass, would keep me up nights. I would only consider that option if there was a blasting company available locally that used dry ice pellets.

If it is a cosmetic redo of an intact engine, I would degrease, then paint stripper/wire wheel it, scrub wash clean and repaint.

David

[gary_bath_jr]

I don't really want to do a complete teardown as I do not have the knowledge to get it back together properly and I do ot want to spend $1000 to get it done as I have spent a lot on my truck so far and had shitty results from a "professional".

Gary

[chris vickery]

Gary
A good running engine can be freshened up by doing simple things like cahnging all the gaskets, timing chain etc. I would simply degrease and use a wire wheel as David suggested folloowed by paint of your choice.
A few hours of hard labour with a scraper, some degreaser and some scouring pads will make it look like a million bucks.
Remember though, that a good looking engine doesn't get you home....
Mechanicals are the key to a good running motor.

[Private_collector]

Hi Gary,

I agree with degreasing followed by a chemical strip. Sandblasting could prove to be very bad indeed. Though I have not yet tried soda blasting, I have been informed that the 'grit' residue is completely disolved by washing off with virtually any liquid, including petrol or turpentine. Is not greatly expensive, and may be viable if you factor in time you will spend to clean engine by physical means. The transport to/from blasting site may not be easy, so a DIY clean might suit you better. Also, I can't stress enough that all my knowledge about soda blasting does NOT include first hand experience. I would be keen to try this type of blasting, and a new business has just opened up in town. Must find something replaceable to give them as a test for future work, then I can speak from experience!

I do think you would get quite reasonable results from degrease, strip, and maybe even followed up with a wire wheel on grinder. You could possibly find some of the paint may be more sound than you had initially feared! Just be sure to remove every last bit of paint stripper before going any further. A rub by hand with a scotchbrite pad (abrasive scouring pad) will take care of that. If you choose to do via this method, I apologise in advance for the scarred knuckles & paint stripper burns.

Do you have a photo which is fairly representable of the state of engine block currently?

All the best,

[Bob Carriere]

Gary get ready for a Saturday night bath.
Nothing beats a heavy spray of engine degreaser in a spray can from CTC.... you will need 2 cans...followed by a good high pressure wash, anything over 2500 psi...... all the heavy greassy crud will come off and I doubt you will have much paint left on the block itself. Make sure the dizzy, fuel pump and carby are removed and the holes plugged tight.

Be prepared to get wet. Consider removing the water pump and sticking the pressure washer wand into the water jacket. Try to remove the pet cock on the carby side bottom RH corner near the bellhousing.... you may need to use a coat hanger to break up the rusted crude that may remain in the pet cock hole of the block. Run the water until it come out clear.

Let it dry in the sun and give it a final hand wash with acetone or Xylene before repainting. You may want to change all the old cork gaskets before doing the paint job... pan, valve cover, side pushrod cover.

I have heard that some guys use OFF oven cleaner with good success which is essentially a diluted lye solution and corrosive to the skin.

Any minute amount of water that gets inside the engine will come out when you remove the pan for cleaning out sludge.... also cleanout the screen on the oil pump.

Good luck with the bubble bath.... no pun intended!!!

Bob C

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gary

Would make one addition to Bobs comment, hot or even warm water will work much better than cold water even with a pressure washer. The difference between 50F water and even 110F water is visible better cleaning.

I have a little 2 1/2 gallon point of use hot water heater in the shop feeding the water for the pressure washer through this make a huge difference in cleaning and degreasing even when set for 110F but it is adjustable but you have to be sure not to exceed the operating temp of your particular pressure washer. With out the pressure washer I crank it up to 160-170F and it will cut the sludge out an engine.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Cheers Phil

[maple_leaf_eh]

Ditto on the benefits of hot water. When cleaning well greased gun parts, I have had good results with aerosol engine degreaser, a small bristle brush with a handle, and plenty of hot water. The three work well together - almost like the miracles of soap, a scrub brush and hot water for cleaning really messy children ...

[gary_bath_jr]

Het Guys

Thanks for all the reply's, I talked to a guy from GM and he told me it would be around 4 - 5000 to do my engine and that did not include removing the old paint and repainting it. He did however give me the number of another place in town that is cheaper and might give me a deal, I am waiting until next week when the owner is back in town.

He said at a last resort he would come help me on weekends to get it finished. I have attached photos so you can see the current condition, I started disassembly as it had civilian mounts on it and not the proper one on the front plate.

Gary

[gary_bath_jr]

pics would not load last time so I am trying again.

Gary

Okay so I am getting a security token error when uploading pics.

[Private_collector]

Gary, I would have hoped that for the thousands you were quoted, that would include hot tank cleaning, or chemical, before starting the rebuild. How would they know the block was without cracks, if not to clean thoroughly prior?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gary

What ever you do be absolutely sure the water jacket is really clean out. Having it hot tanked is probably best.

Why do I say this? I am in the midst of trying to solve an over heating problem on my Pat 12 216cu.in. the engine was a runner when I got it so I didn't rebuild it. It has had radiator flush run through it been back flushed etc. all the normal stuff. When I removed the water pump yesterday there was still crap including acorns in the block.

If your engine is apart I'd use a pressure washer shooting water in through every opening into the water jacket with warm or hot water if possible to try and get the inside of the water jacket as clean as possible. Or have it hot tanked.

Cheers Phil