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'Afternoon All,
Now that we have our Ferret operational again after it's Gear-Box/Transfer-Case rebuild, and have been running it for a few days, we've "tweaked" the linkages and adjusted the brake-bands after some running-in, and everything's starting to work properly. We had it up to 60 Km/H (+-) so far, and she looks like she wants to go faster if the speed limits permit. We still have some leakages of fluid from the bearings (?) on the transfer-case portion of the transmission and the suggestion was made by the chap who did the work rebuilding it (our primary mechanic) to use a 710 ml container of LUCAS Transmission Fix and see if that solves the problem. Several other members of the museum who are more mechanically knowledgeable than me thought I should add a container of LUCAS SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil to the transfer-case instead. Is this the recommended course of action to fix the problem and if so, which is the appropriate product to add to the Transfer-Case - the LUCAS Transmission Fix or the LUCAS SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil? Cheers, Chris Preston |
#2
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Chris,
Providing you renewed the oil seals on the output flanges, and there is no wear grooves on the seal paths, then there should be no reason to add "snake oil" to the transfer box. The standard oil grade was SAE 90 EP or 80w/90. Check the breather is not blocked, it is in the top part of the dipstick. cheers Richard
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#3
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Hi Richard,
Thanks for the reply. We didn't renew the oil seals and I'm unable to answer on their condition (of the oil seals on the output flanges), or wear grooves on the seal paths, as we were working on replacing the transmission brake bands and a broken bus-bar spring. The breather holes on the top of the dip-stick were cleaned out by me, but I'll check again to make sure they're not fouled. Our mechanic did mention that the next time we pull the unit we may have to replace the bearings, but in the meantime - which is the correct "snake-oil" to use as a short-term fix? ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#4
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No idea which bearings your mechanic is referring to, but I assume the leaks are from the drive flanges and these can be rectified relatively easily, by removing the flange, then seal housing, change the seal and reassemble. The "snake oil", that was a joking reference to the Lucas additive you mentioned. ![]()
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#5
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Now you have to find someone who doesn't mind working hunched over and curled up while changing those seals. The ones going forward won't be so bad, as you can pull the side doors and actually semi sit/kneel while working on them. But the ones going to the back........ Save the snake oil for the snakes. In my experience it can lead to more problems than it cures. |
#6
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Hi Richard and Rob,
Thanks very much for your advice (still chuckling over the "snake-oil"), and I agree with both of you that it's better to replace the seals when the unit's out of the vehicle rather than using additives that might work. We weren't aware of the leaking until everything was back inside the vehicle and we'd had a chance to run it for a day or two. Taking everything apart to remove the unit from the vehicle is not an option right now as we're now well into our museum's summer program of events and we have other vehicles that need attention. (There's a lot of politics here with our Ferret as it's not a representative vehicle of the RCASC, and the units that the Museum belongs to are RCASC units, so I have to tread carefully on how hard I push to get work done on the Ferret). As a short term fix would one of the two LUCAS products work as a temporary fix? Thanks again for your sage advice. Cheers, Chris Preston ![]() |
#7
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I got burned by one one of those products before....ended up costing me $800 in a transmission rebuild.
While the product may help re-vitalize the rubber in the seal, it cannot repair cracking nor can it repair the groove cut into the yoke. Personally, I would get accustomed to the leaking oil, keep an eye on the level and a small jerry can full of oil on the back, and milk it though the season until I could pull the xmsn and do it right. After the transmission repair, pour a bunch of engine shampoo into the hull, let it sit for a short bit then hose the heck out of the hull with the front wheels raised slightly on blocks. Open up the rear hull plugs and let the good times flow. The oil will return to the earth from whence it came. |
#8
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Thanks Rob,
That makes sense - cheers Mate. ![]() Chris |
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