216 chev motor C60

[Ken Thomas]

Hi, could anyone in Australia (preferably in QLD) tell me where I could get access to an oil pan oil nozzle aiming tool & the dipper / trough checking tool. I would be prepared to buy, rent, borrow or beg. I have had the block rebored, the crankshaft ground, the main bearings line bored etc.& would not dare to take the risk of not doing this check. I have about six motors in pieces that I will have to pass on when I finish this one. I have 3 X C60s in pieces & some C15 as well. Once I have finished the motor I will start a ground up restoration on the C60. Pictures to follow Thanks, Ken

[Mike K]

Ken

I don't think it is absolutely necessary to have the tools that the manual describes .

All I did was connect a water garden hose to the sump inlet and watched the streams of water come out the nozzles, the water all squirted out straight . I have had no issues at all.

Check your gudgeon pins and piston bushes because they do rattle if they are worn . Mike

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Ken

You are the second person to ask this question this month, and as Mike suggest you do not need the actual tool.

Here is what I wrote up to help the last person who asked:

Have you checked the pictures on my web site? Here are the links http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...nchevrolet.pdf This is the lubrication section of the manual. (Last guy to ask was working with out the manual.)

My testing and set up of the system using water. http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...Page%20Two.htm The engine that I took the these photos of setting up the the nozzles now has over 10,000 miles so it must have worked. Be sure to watch the little video of the test. You will see that the stream of water is hitting the side of the pan right at the top of the pan edge. Also that the stream of water is hitting square with the truths. I checked the alignment with a clear strip of plastic, bolted to the block and drew lines for the edges and center of the scoops on the rod. Then bolted to pan using the matching bolt holes and water test the streams of water should hit the center of the scoop center lines. See attached photo Let me know if you need more information, think I have more photos of the process and tools that are not on the web page. Good luck.

With two people asking about this I try and see if I can find the original video and upload it to Youtube at higher resolution. I also made the tools shown in Figs 44-45-46 nothing special will dig them out and photo graph and you will see they are very simple and logical.

More questions please ask.

Cheers Phil

[Ken Thomas]

Thank you Mike & Phil.
I appreciate your quick answers. Phil, I can see the thoughtful efforts you have put into what you have done & would like to see more if you have it. I have seen many chev motors that have had big end problems, usually I suspect from the big end bearings being badly worn or out of adjustment, or the dippers broken off. I do not think any blown motor I have seen was even partly due to the alignment of the oil jets etc. However the motor I am building is from the pick of the best parts I have. I am not repairing a motor I know the history of & feel confident of the motors oiling system. I have a lot riding on this. Other than the block being bored & the crankshaft being ground, every other part is new. ie new genuine cast iron pistons, gudgeons & bushes, cam, main & big end bearings,oil pump, timing gears, harmonic balancer. Head ground, new valve guides & valves, new inlet & exhaust manifolds. The motor will be fully balanced.
As you can see I have a lot at stake & need to get peace of mind that I have left nothing to chance.
Thank you for your information. I will be happy to have any more help.
When all the machining is done I will try to put up some photos of the project.
Thanks again, Ken.

[hrpearce]

Ken if you have hills to climb a good safety measure is to add one litre of oil above the full mark.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Ken and Everyone Else

One big caution if you send out piston and connecting rod machine work. MAKE SURE THEY ACTUALLY DRILL THE HOLE THROUGH THE CONNECTING ROD BEARING SHELLS.

Don't laugh, the last 216 I sent out to be mechined the guy doing the rods didn't understand that it was splash/spray lubricated not a preassure crank. The pistons and rods came back all assembled and nicely boxed with bearing installed with no holes drilled.

Stuff like this is why I always do the final assembley and clearance check on engines.

Will look for more photos, video, and dig out the tools.

Cheers Phil

[Ken Thomas]

Hi Phil, had another tip about checking the above & would add it to your system. Fill the troughs with a firm grease & rotate the crankshaft. With allowance for the gasket, if not fitted, you will get an indication of the depth, clearance & alignment. Of course if any resistance was felt something seriously wrong would be indicated. Cheers, Ken.