Heads Up: UC exhaust downpipes

[John W]

I’m looking Into manufacturing some UC conical exhaust down pipe repair sections.
These will have the correct barrelled and waist section to aid engine fitting/removal.
I don’t have a price yet but if anyone is interested, please let me know.
I’m looking at making them approx 8” (200mm) long to repair original downpipes.

[marcel both]

Hi John
Send a PM.

Cheers
Marcel.

[kevin powles]

John, I would be interested in some, I’ve made these before and just a note that the barrelled ends need to be made oversize from original spec, as I’ve found once you put a 70 + year old elbow through a grit blaster and use a flap wheel to get a circular sealing face back an original size barrel will be to small to seal.

Also they are not a mirror image of each other, they have different ‘throws’ each side.

Will you be making them in 316 stainless steel?

Kevin.

[Lynn Eades]

John. Here is a suggestion?
1. Have some flanges cut.
2. Turn up some pipe ends.
3. Bend up the pipes.
4. Make up a jig from the pipe you have and weld all together in your jig.
5. Find an original for the other side and do same.

Bolt the flanges to a decent plate (part of jig) and then they wont turn into a banana like the stainless ones I bought from England.

[kevin powles]

Yes Lynn, not an easy item to make and get right, we are all on a learning curve.

[kosbie]

pm sent

Rick

[Lynn Eades]

I only had one original side, so I put the engine in, assembled the flange to the manifold, put the ball end of the pipe into the exhaust elbow, put the pipe in place and tacked it all together. then pulled it out and fabricated a jig from that.
It requires that the engine, gearbox assembly is properly in place and all tightened down.
Kevin. I appreciated your offer of replacement, however the cost of postage to you and back was way more than what they cost to buy.

On the "fit' of the ball end of the pipe in the elbow. I don't think it was ever designed to be airtight. free moving without being sloppy works fine.
Any rotational movement of the engine on the front mounts would result in more of an in and out movement at the pipes than anything else.

Selecting the correct Ford mounts would be important, the ones in the carrier being from a truck rather than the softer car ones or the Jeep one. Micheal R has previously posted details.

[John W]

Thanks for the messages guys, I do have an original pair to pattern from.
I’m planning on mild steel only for now.

[John W]

Originally Posted by kevin powles

John, I would be interested in some, I’ve made these before and just a note that the barrelled ends need to be made oversize from original spec, as I’ve found once you put a 70 + year old elbow through a grit blaster and use a flap wheel to get a circular sealing face back an original size barrel will be to small to seal.

Also they are not a mirror image of each other, they have different ‘throws’ each side.

Will you be making them in 316 stainless steel?

Kevin.

Hi Kevin.
Making them oversize is a bit awkward, as to know what size you require.
These parts as you know are designed to move in the elbows to allow for engine movement.
Cheers

[Andrew Rowe]

Just out of interest, were the "wasted" ends suppose to have fire retardant rope
fitted for sealing the exhaust gases?, when you install them.

[Lynn Eades]

I don't think so Andrew. I don't think carbon monoxide poisoning had been invented, back in the day. You just had to take your teaspoon of cement and harden up.