Gas Tank question

[Jordan Baker]

Hi everyone.

Im thinking of taking my UC gas tank into a rad/tank repair shop in the next day or two and was wondering if there was anything I should ask to have specificaly done.

Looking inside there is lots of surface rust and I can hear bits moving around when the tank is shaken.

[jim sewell]

Internal abrasive method .
A method of doing it yourself is to make a frame that can grip the ends of the tank and rotate the tank in variable positions ie, horizontal or vertical and in between positions .
Put in some sharp stones ie blue metal ( aust term ) and some water and detergeant and rotate with a small elect motor or similar device ( remove the fuel gauge sender unit first ).
.
This should scrape away the surface rust etc
Regards
Jim S.

[marco]

Hi Jordan,

In Holland, we use those small concrete mixers you can rent at certain hardware stores.
Just tie the fueltank to the drum of the mixer, put some grit or sand in the tank and let the mixer turn for a couple of hours.
By adjusting the angle of the drum, it is possible to let the sand reach all corners of the tank.

I think it is advisable to coat the inside of the tank afterwards to prevent rust forming in the future.
This can be done on the concrete mixer also.
There are special products on the market for this purpose.

The alternative is to have all the work done professionally.

Best regards,

Marco

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks for both the tips. Im still thinking of getting it done professionaly instead of me messing around with it.

Thanks again

Jordan instead of spending lots of cash for your fixing gas tank , why not put a gas tank inside your UC gas tank like I did , all you do is cut the bottom out, and slip in a smaller metal gas tank in side of the uc tank , remember, if you do this, to get a tank with the cap that screws in side the spout , i did this to one of my right uc gas tank, traded my left tank for uc parts ,, also i bypassed the UC fuel pump to use an electric pump and a straight rubber hose gas line to the carb, Cheers


BIG MIKE

[rob love]

One of the guys in our area filled his UC tanks with pea gravel, and strapped the tanks to his tractor tires. A day out in the field shot peened the inside beutifully.
If you take them to a rad shop, they will acid wash the tank and then coat them inside with a rubber type coating. I don't know if they have improved this coating in the last 15 years, but the older stuff you had to be careful not to use alcohol in your fuel or the coating would disentigrate and plug your fuel lines.

A rusty tank will continually give you problems, and embarass you on parades and mobile displays. Good to see you being proactive on this.

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Your other option is one of the repro tanks available out there. That would be MY choice. Do a search on MLU for info on these.

[chris vickery]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rob love
[B]One of the guys in our area filled his UC tanks with pea gravel, and strapped the tanks to his tractor tires.

Talk about a hillbilly... Oh yeah, you guys don't have any hills out there on the prairies.

"round these parts we'd call that pretty redneck, something like I might do.

[Jordan Baker]

OK just got back from the rad shop.

The guy said they would have to cut the bottom out on the tank and then sandblast out the inside and coat it with a special protector. They would also fill in any pin holes. He said the cost would be approx $400 CDN.

The other option he said was to get a fuel cell.

Any further suggestions.

cut out the bottom and put a tank in a tank, why spend $400.00 on something your not going to see, go figure


BIG MIKE

[rob love]

You could do it yourself, using some of the suggestions listed here. Put in some gravel or abrasive, and find a way to work the rust out of the tank. The compound you require is available. Check out this link: http://www.canada-por15.com/merchant...de=TankSealers
http://www.canada-por15.com/por-15-tank-sealer.htm
A simple google search will net you many other companies which sell similar compounds. Try the following search terms: fuel tank repair compound coating
The company I linked to above charges about $90 for a gallon, which would be enough to do both your tanks, with about enough left over to do one more. The second link will answer most of the questions about how to do it.

While Mike's suggestion about the tank in the tank will work, there is something to be said for having two tanks in working condition. In fact, I think the term is "restoration" (Sorry big mike)

Restoration????? Yes I never heard of this term, Need to add it in my Black GOOD Book of new words, thanks ROB , for enlighting me, I guess I better remove my Plywood wall armour and Duck taped steering wheel I guess that throws out my embroidery EH BRAD???

Cheers BIG MIKE

[Snowtractor]

I was watching the show TRUCKS! on SPIKE and he redid a tank with some off the shelf stuff you can check out on his website. It had a 2 or three step system that removed , prepped and then coated the inside of the tank he used. I also believe he used a bunch of nuts and bolts as the abrasive.
Sean

Originally posted by Jordan Baker
OK just got back from the rad shop.

The guy said they would have to cut the bottom out on the tank and then sandblast out the inside and coat it with a special protector. They would also fill in any pin holes. He said the cost would be approx $400 CDN.

The other option he said was to get a fuel cell.

Any further suggestions.

I have grit-blasted any number of fuel "containers" in the course of the daily job. I can guarantee those presented as "There is/was some old, rusty, fuel in it you'll/I have got out, but its good as it doesn't leak"; invariably become like filigree lace when the old paint and crud succumbs to the chilled iron G12.

They seem to be holding the gone-off petrol and water by nothing more than paper thin metal assisted by some rust and old paint. Safe they are certainly not.

Also fair to say some of the more experienced and pragmatic restorers bring a tank and say just blast the outside so we can see what we've got and if its worth repairing.

It is worth seeing the scale and scope of the job before investing time and money on the inside. . . . . . . . . . .

R.

[Stewart Loy]

Originally posted by Jordan Baker

Any further suggestions.

Jordan,

I have several cases of the POR gas tank kits that have the metal preparation, conditioner, and sealer, and gasoline preservative. I got them from the POR rep. at the Ancaster Car Swap Meet last fall and have not had a chance to get the C15 tanks done yet.

I can also point you to the guy that I use in teh Woodpile that did my T-16 tank for 40 bucks.

Or you could get my 'Rob Groves' repop tank - 5 years old, but painted and still sitting on the shelf.

If you are going to the Etobicoke Militaria show on Saturday I can bring any or all with me, as I need the truck there to grab some big tires and rims from Bob Carriere. Peter Simondson says I have to be at the show before dawn, so any time after that is OK.

Let me know.


Stewart

[chris vickery]

Jordan, the first cmp tanks I did myself. I simply cut the bottoms out with a zip cut disc, had them sandblasted inside and out, then welded the bottoms back in. The interior was full of loose crud but amazingly they did not have any pinholes as I did not even have to coat them. I tested them by filling them up with water and let them sit on some paper to see if they leaked. I even put a rubber bung in with a couple pounds of air and they were good to go. Afterwards I simply dumped the water and used an airline to dry them out. Cost was next to nothing.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

I have done a few old Allis-Chalmers circa 1945 fuel tanks with the POR kits and they are very good for the price... one of them is still sitting out there in the snow half fillewd with gas.

You ave to wash the inside with an acid solutions, actually muriatic acid.....spelling?... the one you get at Home
Depot to remove rust spots from cement. The kit does include solution but on a large tank you need more. Rince with mots of water. dry vry well on a sunny day. then you seal all openings except one and poor the sealer...... slosh around and poor out extra...leave cap off and let dry for a few days. I found that even pin holes were sealed permanently.

Having acces to an old electric cement mixer and rubber bungee straps makes life a lot easier especially with a larger tank.

To get a better job do the outisde with POR 15 balck matt paint and it should outlive you even at your young age......

Bob C.

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks again for all the tips on this stuff.

My grandfather thought the tractor idea was rather "interesting" but he did tell me there was an old style cement mixer out in the barn.

How much gravel should I put in the tank, a few buckets full?

Stewart I tried to get in touch with you at work but no luck and your home # was busy. Will try again in the evening.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

How is enough or too much.... On a CMP tank I would almost prefer to use broken glass...... best is a smashed up side window safety glass from an old car.... don't use your dad's car window for that. Gravel can break down to sand and remember what you put in you have to take out. On my CMP tanks they have a 1/8 perforated baffle system and I woudl be very concerned with being able to get all that gravel out.

On tractor gas tanks that I have done they had no baffles whatsoever so it made it easy.

I would flush all the rust dust out with mucho water..... than use the acid that will actually desolve surface and loose rust...... fluch out and inspect..... sure it will be pitted and some hard surface rust will remain.... repeat the acid bath....but beware solid tanks can have tissue paper thin metal left and too much acid will cause holes. I woudl play it safe and do only one soak.

The tank sealer that POR or other outfits sell will actually bind quite well tot he rusted surface and also glue any rust dust left to the side of the tank....... if you see tiny little weeping spots on the outside... them's pin holes...... let them dry...don't wipe them.

If you are lucky and apply the same degreasing process outside and phosphoric acid bath outside... let it dry and paint with POR 15 you will have very tough finish.

Good luck.... hope to see you in Etobicoke on Sat.

PS...... wear good surgical gloves the sealer and POR will bind to your skin for at least 2 weeks...... nothing will remove it when dry.

[Stewart Loy]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere

........nothing will remove it when dry.

Bob,

I disagree with your comment - Jordan could use coarse sandpaper or a cheese grater to remove this goo after it has dried onto his hands.

Hope that helps,


Stewart

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

If you're not inclined to drive to and from Ottawa for the Saturday thing, you're welcome to spend a night or two in my digs. I have the space. PM me if you wish and I'll send you contact info.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Geoff

Nice to offer...... I am actually going down on Friday and staying at the outlaws on Grimsby........ my wife thinks I am sacrificing myself by going down to see her folks and she thinks that the Etobicoke show is just a convenient event while I am down that way.......hihihhi.....sure Hun-ney!!!!!

Seriously she is a good sport... this way we both get to do what we want...also picking up some Holland parts from Brian in Hushnawwha.....

Thanks again for the offer.

Bob C