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  #1  
Old 23-10-11, 22:52
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Reason I asked about the rubber boots

The reason I asked, is what Keith mentioned is that a lot of them look hard being old stock and I have recently gotten new ones through NAPA here in the states.


Cheers Phil
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  #2  
Old 24-10-11, 00:20
Bob Moseley (RIP)'s Avatar
Bob Moseley (RIP) Bob Moseley (RIP) is offline
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Default Brake Parts

Hi all - i use a very reliable brake place here in Adelaide. They refurbish and/or supply any of the old parts and have a good understanding of the old technologies. I have had several brake sets and brake boosters done by these people and their work is great.

Bob
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  #3  
Old 24-10-11, 03:20
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Brake Cylinder Boots

I have a supply of brake cylinder boots, that I had in fact bought from Vangards a long time ago. There is about a dozen each of front and rear. They were not hard or perished. They were soft............mmmmm...soft. I didn't put them on for the photo because I have put them "somewhere safe" and only found them after reading the recent postings regarding them.
PA240426.jpg
I looked into having the cylinders re-sleeved, but new ones were only $10.00 dearer (for the two) and that included shipping from U.S.

Presently got four master cylinders, at least one of which is not requiring any work.

Hopefully, the only thing that will need to be rebuilt is the vacuum booster. If it's minor rebuild only, there is a place in Brisbane that manufactures seals & rubbers. If major rebuild is required, I may send it down to Adelaide, to the place Bob told me about earlier.

There is a good and helpful brake shop here in Gympie that will assist me in learning how to manufacture new brake lines properly. All the parts can be bought from Macs Auto, once again, mysteriously cheaper than buying down the street.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 24-10-11 at 03:30.
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  #4  
Old 24-10-11, 04:57
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Bob Moseley (RIP) Bob Moseley (RIP) is offline
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Default Brake Booster

Tony - there is no such thing as a major or minor rebuild of these things. Whatever has to be done, the booster has to be dissembled and that is quite tricky as it contains a large and powerful spring. Then the thing has to be cleaned and a replacement bucket and seals have to be fitted. Don't bother with the old bucket that could be at least 65-70 years old, these are life saving brake componants you are talking about. When I obtain the other contingencies I talked about I'll see if there is a spare one that I could get rebuilt.

With the master and slave cylinders any good brake place can clean, re-hone or re-line them along with putting all new componants in, i.e. pistons, seals and boots. You don't need to buy from overseas. Doing it all locally also gives you a comeback if anything untoward happens. I would also be wary of using your old brake linings, get them professionally replaced. No matter what vehicle I restore I always get the whole brake system professionally done. Brake lines are easy if you have templates or else if you have them, just a good flush is all that is needed.


Bob
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Last edited by cliff; 24-10-11 at 23:33. Reason: removed last sentence which was not required - Cliff Hutchings
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  #5  
Old 24-10-11, 12:23
Private_collector's Avatar
Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
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Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Bob

Thankyou for you opinion about where and what I should be doing with my restoration. I am somewhat familiar with the disassembly of brake vacuum booster. I pulled apart an unservicable one, for sole puropse of examining the structure, a number of weeks ago. Additionally, I have consulted others who have already been through the process, to gain their knowledge & hindsight BEFORE I decide which path to take. If you read back through postings in this thread you will see I have purchased the repair and maintenance manual and this has been studied closely. As I have said in last 48hrs, there is a company in Brisbane who manufacture the parts you are so concerned about failing, so you need not worry yourself needlessly.

Regarding reconditioning VS new parts (where available). The 'comeback' you speak about is a situation I wish to avoid entirely with NEW replacements where indicated. Why place your safety in hands of someone elses ability to repair a 70 year old part when new is available? Especially when $$$ difference is negligable.

I will put countless hours into restoring minor parts with intention to retain as much originality as possible, but where safety is concerned i'll take new anytime where possible. You say you "always get the whole brake system professionally done" then you state "Brake lines are easy if you have templates or else if you have them, just a good flush is all that is needed" That is a contradiction of philosophies. There are things you can do yourself & there are things that only professionals SHOULD do. If you think for a moment or read back through thread, you may see that I don't half arse ANYTHING, especially concerning safety. Because I speak of rebuilding or repair, it doesn't mean I will be the one doing it. Give me some credit for common sense.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by cliff; 24-10-11 at 23:35. Reason: removed last paragraph as it was not needed - Cliff Hutchings
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  #6  
Old 25-10-11, 00:30
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default Tony

I'd like to say you are doing a great job! I dont spend much time looking at the softskin stuff, but I am enjoying your informative posts, good photos, and seeing your quality work coming together. Keep up the great work!
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  #7  
Old 25-10-11, 01:51
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
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Default Lynn

Lynn,

Thanks very much for your kind comments.

It really does help spur me on, seeing my efforts are looked on favorably.

I'm heading out right now to take rear axle/diff housing to sandblaster. Will be waiting while they do it then pick up some bearing cups from town, and return home to etch/prime the axle.
PA240431.jpg PA240427.jpg
Shouldn't get any grit inside. I wrapped sensitive areas in 10 layers of gaffer tape (with rags beneath), and the larger openings are covered with plates of MDF I made yesterday morning.

Lets see if it does the job.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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