Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

No worries chaps! I understand exactly what you are saying. This truck could never be perfect, even if true craftsmen were paid to do each job. I am considerably less than a 'craftsman', trust me. Besides, the object is to present a finished product that will have a long life and be maintenence free as is possible. So for me the mantra is "do it well once, never have to do it again". Hows that for naive thinking?
P3030822.jpg
I got the primer / spray filler on the cab rear, this afternoon. While I have endevoured to eliminate 'post built' damage, this will not be achieved, and the best I can hope for is to remove heavy damage and minimise those tricky little bits that don't show themselves until you get a nice even top-coat of paint.
P3030824.jpg
As I was beating and filling the dents & high spots, I have been very mindful NOT to cover any of the spot welds. These have been left alone. You can see them in the above photo. I agree with both you gentlemen, in that these things show the true construction method and should not be 'improved' upon. In all honesty, I actually like the wavy finish of the original build. I don't like leaving deterioration or damage that has obviously occured in the decades after the war.
P3030825.jpg P3030828.jpg
I did go ahead with coating the rear panel inside with a good quality low-build stone guard. It is discrete, and once painted it should not look out of place. It does cover the small lows & highs that I couldn't get completely flat.
P3030833.jpg
As I said yeserday, the anti-squeak was made while waiting for the primer to dry. When I wanted to cut the rubber where bolt holes go, I was scratching my head as to what could be used to mark the black rubber well enough to locate the right spot for punching holes. Simple answer = liquid paper pen!!

When I was working on the cab floor frame, I was surprised to see some of the welding was worse than mine. Immensely strong no doubt, because there is soooooo much of the weld, and such heavy reinforcing to the frame base. One thing I wondered about is a little round stamp of many seperate divits. These are found in many places around the cab frame. Are these from some part of the building jig? Is it something to assist with bending to shape?

Either way, don't worry, they are still there. I didn't cover them with filler

Your comments are always welcomed chaps, and your advice is greatly valued!

[Private_collector]

WW1 Tank replica.jpg
I need one of these in my front yard.

Then let them come selling door-to-door

It's a replica & advertised on Milweb. I think it was 30,000 pounds (price, not weight)

[Private_collector]

Gentlemen,

I have been contacted by an acquaintence with the following question:

"Hi Im wanting to know if number LV7 FD MAY BE CHEV BLITZ AS I HAVE NEW PARTS FOR THIS PART NUMBER, SWITCHES, HEAD LIGHT LOOM"

Can you help me answer this inquiry?

I don't have Chevs, as you know, so if these parts are available, I can see if they are alright for someone else.

Thanks in advance,

T.

[Private_collector]

Ford tail lights.jpg
I am considering buying these two tail lights.
Any idea how much I should be expecting to pay for them?

[Keith Webb]

The FD bit usually means Ford.

Post a pic and we'll identify them. Often the looms have a metal tag with a proper part number stamped onto it.

As for the tail lights, a lovely piece of CMP gold there - worth whatever someone is prepared to pay - I could easily see them go for up to $200 for the pair.

Originally Posted by Private_collector

"Hi Im wanting to know if number LV7 FD MAY BE CHEV BLITZ AS I HAVE NEW PARTS FOR THIS PART NUMBER, SWITCHES, HEAD LIGHT LOOM".

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

The FD bit usually means Ford.
Post a pic and we'll identify them. Often the looms have a metal tag with a proper part number stamped onto it.

headlight wiring.jpg dash switches.jpg
These are the photos I have just been sent.
Part Number on wiring is not easy for me to see.
Are these switches original and/or valuable??

T

[Keith Webb]

The circled ones are definitely Ford so you should keep them! Hard to tell with the wrapped loom though.

[Private_collector]

Thanks for the switch info Keith,

Also for your PM about the h/brake boot. I will still go in for a shift boot though.

Re. the switches I have asked about, they are not mine. The enquiry is for someone else who was wondering what they were. I have an interest in the headlight wiring and may buy it if suitable.

Some time ago, I was negotiating to buy a cache of original Blitz dash switches. The ball topped toggles, and including several fuel switches. That did not come off as the potential seller wants to 'think about it' for a while. I take it thats code for 'see how much I can wring out of someone & keep you as a backup plan'. Still, good luck. My plan 'B' for switches was for ones with correct positions, without the ball top. These are now installed in the dash and don't look half bad! It was one of the very few jobs I could do today that didn't require power or dry weather. With all switches other than fuel selector, I have used the [Mom.On-OFF-ON] type. These were the best I could get that have an OFF position that it directly vertical. Obviously the fuel switch is ON-OFF-ON.

Cab rear panel was block sanded this morning. Only one small area required a further skim of blade putty. If fine weather tomorrow i'll try to get the thing painted. The rifle attaching brackets were straightened and the spring steel 'jaws' where rifle clips in needed to have a minor change to alignment, for rifle to sit properly. I have some deac. SMLE & 'Jungle Carbine' rifles here and I am about to get one out to make a pattern for the wooden blocks that bolt onto floor of cab.

Does anyone have any photos of these that I can have a look at, please?

I want to make these in one piece, using a router for removing the wood where rifle goes and band saw to form outer edge. May start on this tomorrow if weather is bad. Otherwise, the windscreen frame beckons.



Still no 1/4in slot head CSK bolts! They are on back order, apparently.