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  #1  
Old 12-04-12, 19:13
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cliff cliff is offline
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Smile

The trouble with our climate Tony is eventually they will split as the heat dries them out. So no matter how good they look now they will wear quick. Soaking them in a good timber preservative as used on your rifle butt will keep them looking better longer.

But it is your truck Tony and if you wanna paint it any color but green you may do so. I was pulling your chain in a gentle way as I too think they are too good to paint....just yet anyway!
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"and on the 8th day he made trucks so that man, made on the 7th day, had shelter when woman threw him out for the night"
MrRoo says "TRUCKS ROOLE"
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  #2  
Old 12-04-12, 22:15
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Tony Baker
 
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Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Cliff

Cliff,

Thats cool! Don't worry.

They are already sealed with a matt clear. That should protect OK.

I also suspect (but forgot to ask) that they are already seasoned / dried.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #3  
Old 13-04-12, 04:32
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Much to nice a finish....

.... have you considered using them as candy dishes....?

You have to see a NOS model.... roughly made of readily available Canadian hard wood.... maple...ash.....even suspect pine..... and quickly painted OD. These were made by many local wood shops under contract and the quality, finish, manufacturing techiques and dimensions would vary greatly

I have seen 60 year old ++ examples in the back of cabs that were still in one piece.....dirty...moldy but still intact. I beleive a lot has to do with the orientation of the growth rings and slow tight growth ( higher quality wood) versus quick thick growth rings of poorer quality wood.

By the way what kind of exotic wood did he use....?

Bob
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  #4  
Old 13-04-12, 07:37
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cliff View Post
but it is your truck Tony and if you wanna paint it any color but green you may do so. I was pulling your chain in a gentle way as I too think they are too good to paint....just yet anyway!
You will see they match perfectly to the wooden dash and door cappings Tony will eventually fit ...
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  #5  
Old 13-04-12, 08:05
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Location: HIGHTON VIC
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Default Speaking of wood...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra View Post
You will see they match perfectly to the wooden dash and door cappings Tony will eventually fit ...
Perhaps Tony can wear clogs to drive it too.
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  #6  
Old 13-04-12, 10:44
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default You cheeky buggers!

I didn't think of a wooden dash. That would be nice.
Perhaps in burl walnut!

I have worn clogs......once, when in Amsterdam. I was gonna buy a pair but couldn't get a wallet to match.

As for the timber used for rifle cups, you know I didn't think to ask. I was really quite overwhelmed by the craftsmanship and it slipped my mind. I have asked the fellow to call in here and have a look at the CMP for himself, which he assures me he will do in near future. I will be sure to ask about the timber when I see him then. In some ways I wish he hadn't done such a good job of the cups, and I would have no issue with painting them. Give me a few weeks to get used to the idea and they will no doubt turn green, but I just can't do it now. It would seem a little disrespectful to hide all the beauty and effort that made em. Maybe I could 'accidentally' knock one, causing a blemish I would have to hide. Naaah!

I remember when I was first told that the Chevs had a wooden steering wheel and Fords didn't, I was disappointed. The wood steering wheels look great, if restored well. I will have to make do with having the bland old plastic one tarted up. Come to think of it...............what the hell is it made of? I really don't know.

I'm hoping to get sufficient materials to make two new side curtain frames, tomorrow. If the passenger door is on this weekend as planned, and I have the frames made and checked for fit, I will take them to auto upholsterers next week and give the 'go ahead' for work to begin. It will be a milestone to have them on the newly restored doors.

This weekend I am going to see a 'free' trailer with a usable axle and wheels. If suitable, I can proceed with removing both front & rear ends, in readyness for sandblasting. Transfer case will come off prior too. If the side curtain manufacture starts soon, I will wait a while for chassis work, on financial grounds. The 'kitty' is getting a little light.

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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #7  
Old 13-04-12, 14:36
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Tony Baker
 
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Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Polishing the brass

pyrene 1.jpg pyrene 2.jpg pyrene 3.jpg
Never a 'dull' moment.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #8  
Old 15-04-12, 11:24
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Todays progress #1

passenger door finished 1.jpg
Passenger door is now on. I made three shims yesterday, just in case I needed some. I actually used four in total. Same old story about top hinge hitting door edge, same old story of door front edge hitting windscreen support frame, and thats despite the frame pack being insitu. All these problems now overcome.
rifle cups finished 1.jpg
Rifle cups and fire extinguisher installed.
cab covered 1.jpg
With the last of the floor bolts tightened and ready for painting next weekend, I put the cab to bed for the week.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #9  
Old 15-04-12, 11:52
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Todays progress #2

side curtain frame new 1.jpg side curtain frame new 2.jpg
Got the two side curtain frames made. One nearly completed, needing only a strip of metal along rear edge. The other one, just a bare frame. The attachment points will be made for that one next weekend (I ran out of metal bar). They are very easy to make really. I could have gotten away with making only one and using one original, but the original one was a bit tired and would have taken more time & effort to repair than to replace!
door curtain frame jig.jpg
That jig worked as I had hoped. Only one cut required once bending completed, and after that cut the ends are ready for welding, which occurs in the jig also.
engine hatch 1.jpg
The engine hatch is to be sent for sandblasting tomorrow. It was lucky that the plate screwed over this hole was thick enough to be used as the repair patch, when I get it back from blasting. Hopefully that will be next weekend!
What would you need to access behind the hatch that was so important as to ruin it. Maybe it's for a speaker

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Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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