Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Jacques,

All helpful advice greatly received! The seal part no. is 81T 3591, and I am now checking with a couple of places online. If no good, I will call into Gympie Bearing Service tomorrow. They take the time to look things up, instead of just saying NO can't get it.

I have bought several NOS seals in past and not all were in perfect shape. I agree with you, if available new, go with new!

Terry,

The sector shaft roller bearing is in good shape on one of my steering boxes. I hadn't noticed the difference in bearing cups, because only the lower one is out. Top one is still firmly lodged in place. Looks visually good though, which suits me fine. I didn't fancy getting that one out.

Here's a question you will probably both know. When I put a seal, bearing or cup number into search etc.., I often find items of same number BUT the prefix may be different (in this case I mean the '81T' part). Are these always different to what I want, or are there chance of being correct still. I have avoided biding/buying anything like this until I find the answer to that question.

For example: Macsauto has a steering sector shaft seal - Ford passenger, Part No. 48-3591. Obviously cant tell anything from the picture on website.

[Private_collector]

Macsauto do have the actual seal I was talking about, 81T-3591, at $3.15 each.

Just found it in their catalog, along with the correct bearings and bearing cups for worm gear & sector shaft needle bearing!

Was in "V8 Ford Pickup 32-47" catalog.

Guess I better get the credit card out again

These are what I will order:
*81T-3591 Steering Sector Shaft Seal Retainer - Ford Truck Except 122 Inch Wheelbase
x1 $3.15

*B-3517 Upper Steering Column Rubber Bushing - Ford Commercial Truck
x1 $4.95

*81T-3571 Steering Worm Gear Bearing - Ford 2 Ton Truck Except 122 Inch Wheelbase Truck
x1 $8.80

*A14585S Wire Clip Set - On Frame - 1/2" X 1-3/4" Long - 10 Pieces - Ford
x1 $1.75 (for wiring along chassis)

*B-3593-A Steering Shim Gasket - .003" Thick Paper - Ford
x2 $1.90

*B-3593-C Steering Shim Gasket - .010" Thick Paper - Ford
x1 $0.95

Catalog - 1909-1927 Model T & TT - 2012-2013 Issue - USA
$0.00

Catalog - 1928-1931 Model A & AA - 2012-13 Issue - Foreign
$0.00

Added 10/10/12: These parts have arrived today, and despite being the matching part numbers, both seal and bearing are most definately NOT THE CORRECT PARTS for the CMP. I will write to Macs when I can and discuss this with them. Do NOT purchase these parts in expectation of rebuilding the Ford 375 series steering box!!!!

[T Creighton]

You are on the right track with those numbers Tony. You will see that the number 3591 pertains to the seal regardless of which model vehicle it is. The 81T prefix is correct for the earlier lighter box. 70 3591 is the seal for the later(from engine no. 2G-7047F) heavier box.
Terry.

[Jacques Reed]

Here's another handy hint from my days at sea discussing business with the Chief Engineer:

To remove bearing cups in places inaccessable to pullers:

Fire up your welder, be it stick or mig and put one bead of weld on one side of the cup only. This causes the cup to deform inwards when it cools and the cup will practically drop out.
We changed hundreds of conveyor roller cups this way and I can vouch that it worked perfectly on removing the inner bearing races of my CMP truck diffs.

Hope you find this interesting and helpful.

Best Regards

[Jacques Reed]

Meant to post a photo of the replaced inner bearing cup on the CMP diff in previous post.

I replaced the crown and pinion at the same time with NOS items. Note the thin copper plating on the pinion. I believe this was done from the factory to aid bedding in of the teeth on the two items.

I found many years ago that often the crown and pinion are highly pitted in the area immersed in oil if they have not moved for decades. As unlikely as this may seem, this is because bacteria in the oil create an acid that attacks the immersed parts.
So those "rare" "hard to find" Ebay items are often just overpriced scrap metal. Caveat emptor!

Regards,

[Private_collector]

Jacques,

I used that same technique to remove bearing cups on my rear axle some time ago. Very satisfactory little wrinkle!
Sure is a very dramatic and straightforward way to get em out. Due to the limited space to swing an arc rod inside the steering box case, and my slight but constant tremor, getting the cup out in that way would be........er........problematic. It's not requiring replacement though, and can stay put.

Usually it's the other way around. The most difficult parts are commonly the ones that have to come out/off.

[Private_collector]

This'll break your heart. Hundreds and hundreds of pieces of equipment dumped on Okinawa at the end of WWII

http://www.vintagemilitarytrucks.com...rd_Okinawa.htm

How about this tantalising discovery some years ago.

http://www.ozatwar.com/bunkers/dandenongstunnels.htm

My father spoke about vehicles, weapons and equipment that he helped load into tunnels (or caves, I forget which) cut into a hill in New Guinea. I should have written down the directions, or more correctly, location from some reference points, but didn't have the same interest I do now. A moot point anyway, as it turns out. A volcanic eruption in the 1990s changed the entire landscape, burying everything around under feet of ash & rock.

Still, lots of other finds still exist and are easily accessed.
http://www.pacificghosts.com/news/tunnels/index.html

http://servicesrecommended.com/index...abaul-PNG.html

How's this for a job!
http://www.nzdf.mil.nz/news/media-re...dowrowipng.htm

See this video of a tunnel examination.
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=ovsmB...%3DovsmB-Sz9C4