Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[hrpearce]

Tony the Pearces are think of you and your family at this sad time in your life.

[Private_collector]

Thanks Fellas.

Year is not off to a good start, is it?

I'm the last guy in the family now.

Below are the photos I promised, of some of the items I found during the cleanup on Saturday.

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The compass is very interesting. Is it one of those that came in the proverbial boxes of "Cracker Jacks"? It is really tiny and bloody hard to photograph with my tablet. Curiously, the closer I got with the camera, the wilder the pointer swung around. Must be a strong magnetic field in the thing.

[Private_collector]

Returned to work on the transfer case today.

Removed the main gasket that was too thin, and replaced with one of ideal thickness. Lucky it WAS the right thickness too, because I really didn't fancy making an additional one to build thickness!

When I installed the emergency brake mounting frame, I realised I did not have the part which slides onto the output shaft. The missing part is also what the brake drum bolts onto, so I can't go any further there until I find the missing part.
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If anyone has a spare of the part I need, I would certainly be interested in purchasing.

I think I can still raise and mount the transfer case as is, so will be attempting that next Sunday. Might even have a go at it on Wednesday, as I have gone down to working 4 days per week instead of 5. Usually Wednesday is my rest day, but I may get a chance, if not too worn out!

Got a visit from a retired mechanic I know, this afternoon. He is keen to maintain his skills, and has expressed great interest in doing the engine assembly. He couldn't believe that ALL mechanical parts are brand new. He also couldn't believe how much it cost me to accumulate all those new bits. Neither can I, looking back.

Looking forward to getting some real progress done from now on!

[Private_collector]

Was just trawling through internet looking for a new 6v starter motor, and saw several 'Hi-Torque' 12v units of great attraction. Now, i'm not electrically minded, so the following question may come across as daft, but I need to know.

I plan on hiding the battery inside the took kit, so I can get away with using modern equipment. Would like to retain a 6v system overall, and don't wish to be adding voltage regulators to achieve that from a 12v battery. Besides, alternator I have is 6v. I would REALLY like to use one of the compact high torque starters, if possible.

Is it possible to have 2x 6 volt batteries, and run one circuit from them in series, and another seperate circuit in parallel??? That way I can utilise 6v for everything except cranking, and 12v for that task. Alternator should be able to return charge to both batteries in parallel, and crank from series, IF its possible to wire that way.

Can this be done.........or will I just burn the truck to the waterline?

[hrpearce]

There are trucks that run on 12v with 24v starters so the duel voltage can be done. I am not shore how the connections work or how complicated it would be.

[Private_collector]

Robert,

Your info is encouraging.

Might see if I can get to talk with a local auto elec tomorrow. Being Saturday, might have to wait until Monday.

Thanks,

[Private_collector]

Almost slipped my mind to mention that after a process which has spanned more than 4 months, my Son has received confirmation that he has been accepted into the Army to train and qualify as a mechanical engineer. There is still a set of physical exercises to be done and some more paperwork to seal the deal. With basic training being done at Kapooka, N.S.W, and winter coming along fast, I don't fancy I would swap places with him, thats for sure.

I didn't do any good with the 2015, Gallipoli attendence ballot. That's a shame. Would be the event of a lifetime.

[motto]

Tony, if you are still interested in a 6/12 volt system, Steve Greenburg has a used Diamond T series/parallel switch for sale at a reasonable price on the G503 forum. It's in the 'Other M.V.s U.S.' section under the 'Trucks 2-1/2 ton +' heading.
No need for a response.
Cheers
David

[Private_collector]

Thanks David. A duel system would be a great advantage, because I could then use a modern high torque starter, and GPS to verify speed. Not that I expect to be ticketed for speeding.

[Private_collector]

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The long awaited muffler has now arrived. I am quite happy with the final product, and both inlet and outlet fit their respective pipes without problem. At a landed cost of $170.00 AUD, it is comparable to modern 'off the shelf' mufflers which although cylindrical, are not ot a patch on the appearance of the custom made version. Personally, I think it's money well spent. While still cashed up, after yearly tax return, I also purchased a pipe bender capable of bending exhaust tubing of both sizes required. I anticipate working the exhaust piping myself. Managed to stumble across a job-lot of vintage Ford exhaust brackets and clamps about a week ago. Should be sufficient suitable pieces in that bunch to do the whole job.......unless I have overlooked something, which is quite possible.
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Here's something you wouldn't know about yet. The new connecting rods that I bought over a year ago, turned out to be unsuitable. I had been told they were 2" crank pin size, and had requested confirmation from the supplier that this was the case, before money was sent. However, when I went to install them (after attaching pistons, mind you) I very promptly discovered they were in fact the larger crank pin size, and therefore were not of any use to me. I have now acquired the replacement set you see above. They are a Scat product, are definately the right crank pin size, and the machining quality is unbelievable. Call it serendipity, these are far stronget than the French military set which they replace. The set is balanced to within 1gram over the whole batch, and have ARP bolts that are apparently superior to all other fastening systems.......so they say! Intended for use in engines up to 700hp, and compatable with supercharge induction, i'm sure they will withstand the puny horsepower of my plant. It cracks me up to think that at some point in the future, another owner will disassemble the engine to recondition or rebuild, and come face to face with these rods. No doubt they will be struggling to understand exactly WHY these girders are in such a modest engine. Not sure I understand why either, suffice to say that I didn't want to run a risk with second hand or NOS rods of questionable parentage!

If anyone is wanting a set of brand new French made con rods for the LARGER crank pin size, let me know.

Engine building is easy eh? Bah!