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  #1  
Old 09-09-15, 10:36
Mike K's Avatar
Mike K Mike K is offline
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Location: Victoria, Australia
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Tony

I have a WW2 Chev cab 13 side curtain , the Aust. pattern one, probably made by GMH ( the plans are on Keith's OLD CMP site somewhere ) . The stitching on it is horrible, it must have been sewed by a beginner , it is that bad its a wonder it didn't fall apart . I don't know if they had inspectors at the factory but he sure missed this one . I also have cab 12 Canadian side curtains and the stitching is rather ordinary , but not as bad as the Aust. one . On the other hand , I have a WW2 Aust. 108 radio set cover and it is very nicely made, perfect stitches . Mike
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1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad
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  #2  
Old 09-09-15, 17:19
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Long steep learning curve....

Hi Tony

Reading your posting with great interest.

I learned how to sew on my grandmother's treadle Singer machine about 60 years ago.

Recently acquired a Singer Industrial (331K4) which will need to be slowed down with a jack shaft pulley arrangement.

I keep looking for a twin needle model but nothing yet I can afford.

From what I have seen a double needle can be used for single needle stiching but NOT the reverse. It seems that all double needle models have twin bobbin and twin tensioners for the tread.....

Let us know when you get good enough that the wife will let you do curtains for the kitchen window.

Cheers
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  #3  
Old 10-09-15, 01:53
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Andy Cusworth Andy Cusworth is offline
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Default Sewing Machine

Hi Tony,

the machine looks good assembled !

In regards to stitching straight lines, initially can you just draw chalk lines and follow them ? also, im guessing someone could stand the other side and assist with keeping the line until you are proficient.

lastly, my Mother in Law is a seamstress of 40yrs and is coming over in December so I could bring her up if you wanted to help set up for canvas ...... honestly its not a ploy to get rid of the MIL
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1943 Diamond T 969
1960s Land Rover wrecker project
1989 Nissan Cabstar GSTroop Carrier

Interested in Bedford RL's, Timber Logging Cranes/Jinkers and Tow Wreckers

Last edited by Andy Cusworth; 10-09-15 at 01:53. Reason: spelling error
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  #4  
Old 10-09-15, 05:26
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Hey there Andy,

I want to do three rows on the rear canopy. That will be the most difficult part. Mrs B will help with the manoeuvring of all that canvas, as it goes past the sewing point.

All the other parts shouldn't be too difficult (how's that for naive), as there will not be two rows required.

The three rows will be, one row stitched with both pieces facing inwards, then one stitch each side of the one just done, after the canvas has been opened facing outwards. So long as I follow the original stitch line, either side, that SHOULD guide me. Optomism Bourne from ignorance possibly.

I couldn't resist trying the machine again yesterday, putting into effect the pointers and advice I had been given. Although I still don't have the thread feed pressures correct, I did manage to get some sound sewing. While adding tension to the upper thread, I found a very fine line between crappy stitching and broken thread. The latter being most common result. Not too worried about that, because once I get the heavier thread, that problem should disappear.

Incidentally, I found yesterday that the heavy duty needles I have bought do NOT fit the machine. They are thicker where they insert into the area that locks them into place. It's an easy fix, but requires a replacement Needle Bar to fit them. I have ordered one, for $10, and it will be arriving next week. Then I will have to figure out how to change it over. That could be 'fun'. The manual is somewhat lacking in detail, and doesn't show that job at all. Can't be harder than rebuilding a transfer case, so I will learn as I do it.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #5  
Old 11-09-15, 03:22
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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There is a excellent industrial sewing forum, I used to use it regularly , lots of decent advice from people who make stuff like boat covers bimini ? I think they call them . Will have a look for it .

Ok this is it

http://www.upholster.com/upholstery-forum/
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad
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  #6  
Old 11-09-15, 10:03
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Tony Baker
 
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Mike,

That is a BRILLIANT website!

I am very grateful that you have brought it to my/our attention.

Will certainly spend considerable time perusing it!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #7  
Old 18-09-15, 13:20
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Delays

Wouldn't you know it, delays hit again.

After discovering that the needle bar on my sewing machine wouldn't take the thicker needles I intend to use, I sourced and ordered a replacement part to suit, at little expense ($10, including postage). When the new needle bar arrived, I started dismantling the machine for the changeover. Before going too far with pulling things apart I thought I should actually try inserting one of my thicker shank needles into the bar. It didn't fit! I had been sent the wrong size by mistake. Grrrrrr. It was exactly the same as the one I wanted to replace. A quick phone call to the distributor cleared up the issue, and the replacement for the replacement, is now on it's way. I hope!
dsc_0114-resized-960.jpg
I bought this roll of heavy, UV treated thread to use with sewing my canvas. Curiosity lead me to cut off a length, wrap the ends around my hands, and see how much strain it would take to break the thread. The good news is that I couldn't break it at all. The bad news is, I could have cut off a finger! Wow, it is superbly strong thread. Would be nice to use it some day, if I finally get everything together. The 'wrong' needle bar is in the photo too, as is what will be my first piece of sewing......but only after I do lots of practice sewing.

I dropped in at the local paint shop a week ago, to get a few consumables. I wanted to be ready to paint a set of 16" wheels once they are sandblasted. While talking with the proprietor, I made a remark that it would be good if I could get my chosen color of camouflage paint in pre packed spray cans. The lady said she didn't see any reason why it wouldn't be available, and proceeded to phone Protec to enquire.
DSC_0116.jpg
And here is the result. It has always been available, I just didn't consider it worth asking about in the past. Now that i am likely to need to spray some small bits and pieces, I will keep a couple of cans in store. I haven't tried it from the can yet, so I don't know how it sprays, nor do I know how the drying time will be affected without the addition of the 15% (by volume, not weight) hardener I always put in. I do hope it sprays nicely. Nothing worse than a spray pack that spits and dribbles paint all over the place.

I'm driving down to Bandiana next Wednesday morning, to deliver my Sons car. Should arrive Thursday PM, and will be staying at Albury until I fly home on Sunday. I have emailed the folks that take bookings for visits to the military museum at Bandiana, and would like to take a look this time, after missing out when we were there around ANZAC Day.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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