Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

I was dismantling a surplus Ford cab yesterday, and found something curious. I'm far from experienced with these vehicles overall, but I have pulled apart 4 or 5 cabs at least. When removing the frame that holds the two window apertures, I found that there is a shaped solid steel block that slides up into each side of the window panel frame, and allows additional strength to the three attachment bolts that hold the panel to cab frame. I had my hands full yesterday, but will photograph the part/s I'm talking and post them if anyone is interested.

You will note I mention three bolts holding window frame to cab. Normally one of these bolts has shared duty of being one of the door hinge bolt locations, but not in this case. This cab is the one that takes the canvas covered doors, and there are NO hinges at all. The window frame isn't even one of the parts I was wanting to use. My motivation yesterday was to get the lower rear cab panel off for thorough inspection followed by sandblasting. Unfortunately (and I seem to be including that word in many posts!), that rear panel is in worse shape than I thought. I knew the steel sheeting was badly dented and has perforation corrosion in a number of places behind the lower angle iron section. I knew I wanted whomever gets the job of replacing the sheeting to avoid disturbing the door latching brackets. What I certainly did NOT know, is that the bottom piece of angle is so badly corroded that it has disappeared entirely in one area. Also, two of the diagonal bracing straps are rotten at bottom where they join the angle iron. Repairing the angle iron frame will be a big job. I do have a spare bit for that, but don't have any spares of the diagonal bracing straps. I feel another four-part trilogy coming on!

The main cab frame section seems to look OK, although I have no doubt all of the >65 bolts holding floor to frame will be reluctant to come away without some form or physical protest. This protest usually takes the form of bolt snapping, and for whatever reason, those bolts are commonly the ones that are very hardest to get to, for removing the caged nut!

With Bryce currently home, I'm only putting in token effort on truck, and that is timed for when Bryce is in town at the gym or catching up with old friends. All other times, spending time with him is most important thing. Bryce has said he will be happy to help me get the crank shaft into the flathead engine while he is here, and that will get done when he has free time.

One of the indoor jobs I have been working on, is to compile a list of stencil fonts and print them as a visual reference for selection in the future. I wanted something more than just a boring piece of board or card with some vinyl stuck to it....
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so I bought a thin sheet of perspex and stuck as many as would fit. Stencil fonts were stuck onto one side, and the rear side sprayed in my truck green. If you REALLY wanted to be tricky, the stencils could have been cut in mirror image and applied to the side that would get sprayed later, giving a very nice effect. I didn't dare try that, because I wasn't sure how the paint would stick, and didntr wish to see the paint react with the vinyl material. Krylon is one of the better spray packs to use, because it actually melts into the perspex (or other plastic/s) and fuses together. I don't have any Krylon yet. Another good effect would have been to apply stencils, spray entire steet (same side), then VERY CAREFULLY remove all the vinyl lettering etc.. This gives freedom to then spray further color onto the perspex, and when viewed from the other side, it looks absolutely faultless. Once again, that wasn't something I wanted to do at this time, but have made many high quality signs for business and advertising, when I played around with vinyl signage in early 1990s. Go a step further, using a translucent set of spray colors, and you have yourself a simle to make light-box sign.
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In future there will be more perspex sheets, to demonstrate some of the different effects that can be had. The RAEME logo and Winston Churchill portrait were cut from gloss white vinyl, and then the applicable white was applied onto flat black vinyl. The RAEME example shows white background retained, and logo becomes inverse. This is what you would want to do, if using the vinyl as a stencil mask. Obviously the background color would be applied (and let dry for 24hrs, or more) to the vehicle surface prior. Mr Churchills' portrait shares same Weeding of the white vinyl, but in this case the portrait lost it's impact entirely if the white 'positive' areas of vinyl would have been used instead. I printed two scenarios for Mr C. One as white image, with the only detail being the smaller areas of white only, and the second scenario as shown. When cut and displayed in the positive, where the subject would have been white on background of whatever..., my Wife didn't recognise who the subject was! When done the second way, he was immediately known. Funny how color can determine how we see something. E.g: Dazzle camo of ships. The second photo above, isn't very clear in subject, but if you look closely, you can see a small Invasion Star on left, without background color, and the other piece is one of my 9th Division identification signs. This one DOES have the flat black background. In this form, its a bit of micky mouse. I would expect all restorers would prefer to spray the black square onto the vehicle surface, then apply a stencil weeded vinyl mask over that, for spraying of the second color through. The stencil would then be removed entirely, leaving only two painted colors on the vehicle. No plastic retained at all!
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This is my next night time project, to copy severar types of WWII minefield signs. In coming days I will work on assessing the portion of stencil Board that was kindly sent for evaluation. There is absolutely no doubt that that board will make excellent single use stencils, but I want to attempt turning this material into Oilboard stock, so it can be used over and over again. Im still comparing techniques that will give best result, but it is looking likely I will be applying a form of linseed oil to the board, in anywhere from one to three coats. Once fully 'blotted and dried' I think there is a reasonable chance of making oilboard stencils which are far cheaper that purchasing commercially available stock.

[Private_collector]

The canvas door cab is disassembled. In the spirit of previous work of similar nature, it was painful. Mostly physically. I lost count of the exact number of caged nuts I bashed away (took all of them off), but it is more than ten...in total. Right about now I'm REALLY wishing I had kept note of where I purchased the replacement countersunk flat head bolts I bought for the cab of green truck. I'm confident I would have mentioned that in a post a long time ago, in a galaxy.....
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May be some perforation to wheel arches, but am not sure until blasted. The rest of the frame is OK. Lower rear panel is very badly corroded in the angle piece and panel sheeting.
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Also the cross bracings are affected, with two needing either repair or replacement.
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One curious thing with this specific cab, is that EVERYTHING had anti-squeak pads on. Not just the nose and rear panels, but all the floor panels, along every place where they touch the cab frame. Some of the anti-squeak was thicker than others too.

I am needing to get my hands on one or two of the rear cab cross braces. If anyone has a spare one / two of these they are willing to sell, I would be very pleased to purchase, so I can continue to rebuild this rear panel.

Many thanks,

[Private_collector]

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This is one of the solid steel pieces that prevents crushing of window frame when attachment bolts are tightened. I have disassembled a few cabs, but these are the only ones I've seen so far. Maybe the frame is Chev, and I have thus far worked on Ford???? The check plate floor sure suggests Ford. Maybe this is the only truly original and previously untouched cab I have disassembled??? I don't really think this is so either.
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I had forgotten how heavy these damn floor panels are, but am now reacquainted. Won't have a chance to take them for blasting until mid or late next week. Trailer still has nice green wheels in it. A favorable phone call on Monday, may mean they get new tyres soon. If not, I'll mothball those for another day.
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With my last bit of day, I made and attached the upper shield panel for my gun. My chunk of rope, and $20 shovel from bunnings don't look too bad, but shovel could get replaced if better fitting one surfaces. Doing the plating of rope ends to take the metal thimbles was not easy.

Next gun related task is to finish the brackets to hold sight cases and other things onto the shield. That's gonna mean a whole lot of cutting, because the templates have all been transferred to one piece of steel plate (the cheapskate in me, returns) and I have filled the entire sheet in ackward to cut shapes! Save $10 in metal, spend $20 in cutting disks.

[David Dunlop]

Tony, your gun shield project is looking awesome! Nice work!

With regards to the stiffeners you found in the Blitz windscreen frame, could these be another 'country of origin' modification implemented in Australian production, similar to the change in outline from rhomboid to rectangular found in the cowl side vent doors?

David

[Private_collector]

Hi David, that sure is a possibility. To be honest, it has me stumped. I really want to get to the bottom of WHY these things were there. They certainly are a damn good idea, and there won't be any crushing of the window frame post, that's for sure.

Wow, I didn't know that was reason for the different shaped air vents. I always thought it was a Chev VS Ford thing. Would you believe I used the vent on my truck for the first time, just a couple of days ago. It was real hot, and I thought the flow of fresh air might make things a little cooler. You know, it really didn't! I'm sorry to say I couldn't even notice a difference. Opening up the window, on the other hand, made a hell of a difference. Glad I cut my hair recently!

[Keith Webb]

The rectangular vent was a Holden production thing only, because they built the entire cab here as opposed to the Ford front shells which were all Canadian built.
I've found the cast pieces for the windscreen frames on all the Fords I have disassembled.
Best guess as to why Holden used that shape is because it was an existing die used for cowl vents on cars and trucks. They also redesigned the windscreen frame profile and used the little diecast closers which can be found on other Holden built vehicles of the era.

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 78271
I had forgotten how heavy these damn floor panels are, but am now reacquainted. Won't have a chance to take them for blasting until mid or late next week. .

Hi Tony,

Just looking at your rear floor plate it looks to be a F15A with the slot for the single range xfer case lever on the right side of of the fuel tank changeover valve hole.

If you are putting it on a chassis with a dual range xfer case you would need a cutout on the plate for the dual range lever on the left side of the fuel tank changeover valve hole (see attached)

I searched for years to find the correct unmolested F15A rear plate so it would be a shame to cut yours if it is not correct for your truck. Plenty of the rear plates around with the hole for the dual range xfer case though. Sorry though I sold the ones in the picture otherwise you could have it.

A Merry Xmas and a Happy New year to you and your family and look forward to the continuing interesting posts.


Cheers,

[Private_collector]

Thanks, Jacques. I hear you, regarding the floorplates. Wasn't aware of any differences, and still wouldn't be if you had not mentioned it. Unfortunately the rear plate has had two nasty big brackets welded on, which I assume is not original. I'm sure I can massage them off, if need be. I tackled a job today that I have been dreading. I thoruoghly cleaned out the workshop, to the extent that there is now clear floor everywhere, propper storage space for the gun shield, permanent location for my hydraulic press (which I bought around 9mths ago), and most importantly.....I can now contemplate rolling the chassis outside for a good blowing down with the air hose and soft brush. Spring cleaning came late this year, and I may not have even done it today, except that I had a gentleman passing by who spotted the daily driver CMP and asked if he could have a look. He was with his Son (I think it was his Son) and they were heading into town. They knew straight away that it was a 13 cab type, and as it was obvious they were 'in the know', I was pleased to speak with them and show them around. The workshop was in a disgusting state, and I was genuinely embarrassed I had let it go so badly. After they left, I thought RIGHT, that's enough of this! Spent all day, but got it all spic & span again. Not taken any photpgraphy. I finished after 1900hrs. Unsure yet if Bryce wants to go to the beach tomorrow, but if he doesn't want to go out, we will line up the grey truck, extend the front winch cable, and pull the restoration chassis out into the sunshine for the first time EVER since it was assembled. Bloody mud wasps have had high jinx building their ghastly little homes, but I think I have now removed all of them.

I hope all you chaps have had enjoyable Christmases. Here, as with last year, we didn't get snow. This has been the case for some years now. In fact, probably been snow free since the last ice-age, 10,000yrs or more ago. In place of snow, we got 35 degree (Celsius) heat. I would have preferred snow, really.

At my age, Christmas doesn't really involve much in the way of gifts.....apparently! Mrs B and I did exchange gifts x1 each, that we had colluded on. We both got new watches. Bryce got a wifi device from us. There is no internet available on his base, so we thought this may be of benefit to him, and also we might get the occasional email or two. He also received a good quality torque wrench, which I had engraved with his name, rank, and service number. More about engraving in a moment. Bryce bought me a VERY special gift which I will always cherish.
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This is my Christmas present from Bryce, a bottle of Port (well I think it is port!) that commemorates "100 years of RAEME". Although this isn't exactly the case, I think we all understand it refers to all the names that the Australian Army have called their Engineers in last century. RAEME, by that name, only came into being after WWII. Hopefully you can read the writing on the bottle. It explains this better than I. I have no intention of opening the bottle, unless a very specific circumstance arises. I pray that event does not occur, and the bottle will remain untouched!

The grey truck didn't have a bad Christmas either. I have bought it a complete set of corner lights and a new pair of side mirrors. I'll put those on when I get a chance, with mirrors the more urgent need. One of the old ones is deteriorating rather badly, thanks to the Queensland sun. The plastic is starting to crumble on drivers side, and I fear the glass may fall out if it progresses much further.

The local company I used to do the engraving on Bryces torque wrench (laser etching, actually) are able to work from a range of suitable formats, and it got me thinking about doing a test to reproduce the generally illusive CMP shift pattern plates etc.. If anyone has either a good quality photo of any shift plates OR a black and white scan/image of such plates, I would be very interested to see them. I will then go about seeing what can be done to make an acceptable replication onto aluminium.

On another topic. Does anyone have first hand experience with installing the Ford flathead engine and gearbox WITHOUT removing the cab????? I would very much like to get my cab back onto the chassis without further delay. The only thing preventing me is of course the unfinished engine rebuild. If it can be put in carefully, with success, it will get me some more workshop space that I intend to use for my sewing machine. It is currently in the other shed, and in the way there! No doubt the nose panel would need to come back off, but that's quite acceptable and not a real big job. If the cab was back on, I can also start installing wiring etc... Any thoughts, folks?

I'll post a couple of photos once I drag the chassis into the sunshine.

[Keith Webb]

A lot of us have done this, it is not too bad if you leave the front shell off so you can get at things easily, but if the cab is intact you'll need something like a forklift to poke it in.
It's quite doable but far easier to do with the cab completely off.

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

On another topic. Does anyone have first hand experience with installing the Ford flathead engine and gearbox WITHOUT removing the cab????? I would very much like to get my cab back onto the chassis without further delay. The only thing preventing me is of course the unfinished engine rebuild. If it can be put in carefully, with success, it will get me some more workshop space that I intend to use for my sewing machine. It is currently in the other shed, and in the way there! No doubt the nose panel would need to come back off, but that's quite acceptable and not a real big job. If the cab was back on, I can also start installing wiring etc... Any thoughts, folks?

Hi Tony,

Here is a very old photo (pre digital) of the engine and transmission coming out of my F15A chassis. I made a strong back out of RHS and angle and attached it by 8 bolts to the valve gallery where the intake manifolds sits to spread the load out. It was easy to fabricate and if you like, I can send a drawing of it. A series of holes for the shackle lets you lift the the engine and transmission together, or just the engine, keeping it level at all times. It used a front towing shackle from the truck to get the correct throat for the RHS width so that even saved a bit of money.

No doubt you could install it the same way with the cab on if you have a engine crane available with adequate outreach and capacity and shorten the lifting chain. The shop manual shows a similar arrangement using a special block and eyebolt inserted in the valve gallery.

I agree with Keith too. Probably best to leave the cowling off to give room to maneuver even though the shop manual indicates it can be done with it on.
Based on the number of cowlings I have seen with the top front crossmember cut out and the later factory mod of that front crossmember being a bolted in type I would say the manual diagram is not 100% correct and that part of the cowling gets in the way.

Cheers,

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Though it is not of Ford V8 have gotten pretty good at pulling and installing Chevy in Pat 13 and 12. Here is video of Chevrolet engine installation set to music

https://youtu.be/Rd1IXU0fchA

When I did this and a time lapse of removing did them as strang entertainment but also as a tool to study the most efficient way, for me, to do it again in the future. Cut down significantly on my learning, or relearning curve.

Agree the comment about removing the nose to work more efficiently, time to pull the nose is more than made up in removal and several times on reinstallation.

Question is the cross bar top of the grill on Fords removable?

Cheers Phil

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

The local company I used to do the engraving on Bryces torque wrench (laser etching, actually) are able to work from a range of suitable formats, and it got me thinking about doing a test to reproduce the generally illusive CMP shift pattern plates etc.. If anyone has either a good quality photo of any shift plates OR a black and white scan/image of such plates, I would be very interested to see them. I will then go about seeing what can be done to make an acceptable replication onto aluminium.

Hi Tony again,

Have PM'd you photos and scans of the three types of shift pattern plates that I know of for F15, F15A and F30-F60. They would have been needed to be shrunk too small to post here.
Hope they are of good use to you.

Cheers,

[Keith Webb]

Jacques, the FGT plate is different in that it has 42 gallons instead of 24 for the fuel capacity.