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  #1  
Old 28-12-15, 00:00
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Installing engine in chassis

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Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
On another topic. Does anyone have first hand experience with installing the Ford flathead engine and gearbox WITHOUT removing the cab????? I would very much like to get my cab back onto the chassis without further delay. The only thing preventing me is of course the unfinished engine rebuild. If it can be put in carefully, with success, it will get me some more workshop space that I intend to use for my sewing machine. It is currently in the other shed, and in the way there! No doubt the nose panel would need to come back off, but that's quite acceptable and not a real big job. If the cab was back on, I can also start installing wiring etc... Any thoughts, folks?
Hi Tony,

Here is a very old photo (pre digital) of the engine and transmission coming out of my F15A chassis. I made a strong back out of RHS and angle and attached it by 8 bolts to the valve gallery where the intake manifolds sits to spread the load out. It was easy to fabricate and if you like, I can send a drawing of it. A series of holes for the shackle lets you lift the the engine and transmission together, or just the engine, keeping it level at all times. It used a front towing shackle from the truck to get the correct throat for the RHS width so that even saved a bit of money.

No doubt you could install it the same way with the cab on if you have a engine crane available with adequate outreach and capacity and shorten the lifting chain. The shop manual shows a similar arrangement using a special block and eyebolt inserted in the valve gallery.

I agree with Keith too. Probably best to leave the cowling off to give room to maneuver even though the shop manual indicates it can be done with it on.
Based on the number of cowlings I have seen with the top front crossmember cut out and the later factory mod of that front crossmember being a bolted in type I would say the manual diagram is not 100% correct and that part of the cowling gets in the way.

Cheers,
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  #2  
Old 28-12-15, 03:26
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Installing Chevy Engine Set To Music

Hi Tony

Though it is not of Ford V8 have gotten pretty good at pulling and installing Chevy in Pat 13 and 12. Here is video of Chevrolet engine installation set to music

https://youtu.be/Rd1IXU0fchA

When I did this and a time lapse of removing did them as strang entertainment but also as a tool to study the most efficient way, for me, to do it again in the future. Cut down significantly on my learning, or relearning curve.

Agree the comment about removing the nose to work more efficiently, time to pull the nose is more than made up in removal and several times on reinstallation.

Question is the cross bar top of the grill on Fords removable?

Cheers Phil
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  #3  
Old 01-01-16, 10:21
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Tony Wheeler Tony Wheeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
Question is the cross bar top of the grill on Fords removable?
Not until mid-1945 production Phil. It was one of several cab design improvements introduced by Ford at that time:

TONY9533 - Copy.jpg TONY9536 - Copy.jpg

It was also post-war Australian Army practice to modify the cross bar during engine replacement, by hacksawing it off and refitting with countersunk screws. Several of my vehicles have undergone this mod:

TONY9541 - Copy.jpg TONY9542 - Copy.jpg
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Last edited by Tony Wheeler; 01-01-16 at 10:27.
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Old 01-01-16, 10:43
Keith Webb's Avatar
Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Hacksaw mod

My FGT has an identical mod to this, I think I'll keep it as part of it's story.

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Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler View Post

It was also post-war Australian Army practice to modify the cross bar during engine replacement, by hacksawing it off and refitting with countersunk screws. Several of my vehicles have undergone this mod:

Attachment 78532

Attachment 78533
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  #5  
Old 02-01-16, 13:23
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
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Default Cabin WILL go onto chassis first.

I attended a new years eve party at a neighbours place, and another guest was a fellow from across the road a ways, who happens to have a light truck with a hydraulic crane that can reach 7mts. I had expected to leave the party and retire to bed around 2230hrs, but approx that time three of us got to talking about restorations, and I invited them over to see my green truck. Personally, I didn't think we were in the workshop for that long, but apparently we almost missed midnight for looking over the contents of my shed! The ladies weren't impressed with our absence. A long story short, my near neighbour has offered use of his crane truck to put the cabin in position, so that is now the plan. I did a quick measure up, and found that once cabin is not taking up it's own floorspace, I will have room to put the sewing machine in AND still have enough room to move the gun inside as well. That's very good news. I had been wondering where it would go. By that time the trails will be plated with steel and attached to the axle/wheels, so it will take considerable space from that stage onwards. The neighbour with the crane is also a master boilermaker and can weld anything, so he may get some of the welding as well.
20160102_185425-resized-960.jpg 20160102_182532-resized-960.jpg
20160102_181153-resized-960.jpg 20160102_173649-resized-960.jpg 20160102_153003-resized-960.jpg
Speaking of the gun, I cut and shaped most of the brackets and shield attachments yesterday, and got those in place this afternoon. I am yet to make one piece that holds the upper part of the dial sight box in place, and possibly another two pieces on the back of the shield (though I dont know what they are for) Also don't know how I am going to make the curved section the telescope viewing door slides / locks onto. It will be metal, that much I know. Probably aluminium. Probably a pain in the backside to make, I shouldn't wonder.
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  #6  
Old 03-01-16, 13:22
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Tony Wheeler Tony Wheeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Webb View Post
My FGT has an identical mod to this, I think I'll keep it as part of it's story.
Indeed it's arguably "standard" on Aust pattern FGTs as they remained in service so long! I have 4 FGT front shells and they all have this mod, as opposed to only two of my numerous other wrecks. It's a definite improvement and worth considering for any resto. I've found the most useful aspect is ease of radiator removal/replacement.
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  #7  
Old 03-01-16, 21:27
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
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Even with the nose panel modification, wouldn't it be more likely to scrape the sides getting the engine in? It's a pretty tight fit, isn't it? Naturally I ask this from a restorers point of view, as I would wager a couple or bits of missing paint while in military service wouldn't lead to anyone getting demoted!
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  #8  
Old 03-01-16, 21:44
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler View Post
Indeed it's arguably "standard" on Aust pattern FGTs as they remained in service so long! I have 4 FGT front shells and they all have this mod, as opposed to only two of my numerous other wrecks. It's a definite improvement and worth considering for any resto. I've found the most useful aspect is ease of radiator removal/replacement.
Quite true Tony, I'll be keeping the mod partly because it's a part of the truck's history and also for practical reasons.

And it's a fairly easy thing to get the engine in and out with that mod even though it's a bit tight. It's still a LOT easier with the front shell off. As for the radiator I fully agree, you can tilt it forward rather than lifting it vertically.
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
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  #9  
Old 03-01-16, 22:35
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Doesn't the manual describe the use of a long wooden pole to R&R the motor from a Ford CMP?
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