Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Thankyou for you opinion about where and what I should be doing with my restoration. I am somewhat familiar with the disassembly of brake vacuum booster. I pulled apart an unservicable one, for sole puropse of examining the structure, a number of weeks ago. Additionally, I have consulted others who have already been through the process, to gain their knowledge & hindsight BEFORE I decide which path to take. If you read back through postings in this thread you will see I have purchased the repair and maintenance manual and this has been studied closely. As I have said in last 48hrs, there is a company in Brisbane who manufacture the parts you are so concerned about failing, so you need not worry yourself needlessly.

Regarding reconditioning VS new parts (where available). The 'comeback' you speak about is a situation I wish to avoid entirely with NEW replacements where indicated. Why place your safety in hands of someone elses ability to repair a 70 year old part when new is available? Especially when $$$ difference is negligable.

I will put countless hours into restoring minor parts with intention to retain as much originality as possible, but where safety is concerned i'll take new anytime where possible. You say you "always get the whole brake system professionally done" then you state "Brake lines are easy if you have templates or else if you have them, just a good flush is all that is needed" That is a contradiction of philosophies. There are things you can do yourself & there are things that only professionals SHOULD do. If you think for a moment or read back through thread, you may see that I don't half arse ANYTHING, especially concerning safety. Because I speak of rebuilding or repair, it doesn't mean I will be the one doing it. Give me some credit for common sense.

[Lynn Eades]

I'd like to say you are doing a great job! I dont spend much time looking at the softskin stuff, but I am enjoying your informative posts, good photos, and seeing your quality work coming together. Keep up the great work!

[Private_collector]

Lynn,

Thanks very much for your kind comments.

It really does help spur me on, seeing my efforts are looked on favorably.

I'm heading out right now to take rear axle/diff housing to sandblaster. Will be waiting while they do it then pick up some bearing cups from town, and return home to etch/prime the axle.
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Shouldn't get any grit inside. I wrapped sensitive areas in 10 layers of gaffer tape (with rags beneath), and the larger openings are covered with plates of MDF I made yesterday morning.

Lets see if it does the job.

[colin jones]

Hmm! Those comments got swept under the rug. Was that a moderator erasor or personal.

[Howard]

Originally Posted by colin jones

Hmm! Those comments got swept under the rug. Was that a moderator erasor or personal.

Yes, Colin, Cliff is a moderator and has acted appropriately by editing & deleting the posts.
H

[Private_collector]

I had asked for umpires decision (moderator).

We both agreed that removal of inflammatory comments was warranted, from both parties posting, and moderator acted in best possible way available.

The matter isn't really worth dwelling on and I hope it doesn't cause formation of bad feelings between any of the brotherhood!

[Private_collector]

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Finally got the axle/diff casings sandblasted this morning, and etch primed in PM. The wooden plates I made for the open ends worked well, with only a slight blow through on the half with pinion. It was lucky I had wrapped pinion gear & bearings in a layer of rag. No grit got through to bearings as far as I can tell. There is no evidence of grit with turning the pinion.
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Picked up the two bearing cups for the inner axle shaft to diff assembly, and the guys at the bearing shop (Gympie Bearing Service) told me some very interesting information about the quantity of chinese fake bearing parts which are getting onto the market. The story goes that China are producing counterfiet 'Timken' bearings which are in near perfect Timken copy boxes.
He told me that Timken genuine bearings have the Timken name/logo on right upper corner of the box edges and the bearing No. & barcode on left bottom of same side. He tells me that any variation of this is definately a fake! I don't know if this is 100% true, but he stated it as fact and it was agreed from the other 2 staff present in the shop. He did actually show me a box with a fake from china that Timken had given them to show to people, and the differences were obvious once told what to look for. There are visible flaws in the chinese bearings as well. Buyer beware.

The bearing cups (Timken, 33462) cost $24.00 each incidentally.