Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

PM sent!

[Tony Wheeler]

Hi Tony,

As promised here are some pics of the original rear crossmember. First one is on my FGT but they're identical on all models. As you can see the tips of the chassis rails have been torched off. They should extend about 13 1/2 inches past the crossmember.

I'd say the only useful hole is the one with the grommet, for the wiring to the diff light and the tail light/brake light pair. The corresponding hole on the opposite site appears to be superfluous, because there's no wiring inside the LH chassis rail on blitzes, only in the RH chassis rail.

The 5 hole pattern in the centre appears to be completely superfluous, I've never seen anything fitted there. Possibly intended for some kind of shackle originally but never used. I'm not sure what the 2 little holes are for, if anything.

I hadn't noticed before but you're right about the different size holes in the large chassis plates. It turns out the small holes are for rivets, and they go towards the front of the vehicle. The large holes are for bolts, and they go towards the back. The bolts are there to hold the cast iron pintle hook mounts onto the chassis, as seen in the second pic (the bolts themselves are in shadow so you can't see the heads). As you can see there are 3 more bolts of the same size on the side.

Hopefully you can pick up a complete pintle hook assy eventually. That would complete the "blitz look" perfectly, as seen in the third pic of my F60L. And it may come in handy for towing 25 pdrs down the main street of Gympie!

The other two large holes in each plate are for pigtail hooks, as seen in the third pic.

It's good that you've got a chassis mob doing the work. Amongst other things they can check to see if the previous owner got the spring hangers square, so you won't be crabbing down the road sideways!

Good luck with it all, looking forward to seeing the results. Let me know if you need any more measurements/pics etc.

Cheers,
Tony

[Private_collector]

Tony,

Thankyou for the photos. I will copy them for now and print them to give to engineers when the chassis is sent in for work. I have requested and been granted a week of annual leave for the week starting 23rd this month. That is when I plan to deliver chassis for the blasting & rear member.

If the new piece is placed in the same position as your photos (location of rear spring hanger), there should be enough chassis rail behind so that the end looks correct...........ish!

I do have a tow pintle assembly, with all pieces complete and unmolested. It mustn't be off this truck originally, as EVERYTHING on this poor old thing has been buggerised some way! Thankfully not irretrievably buggerised for the most part.

At first glance.............and possibly second glance as well, this vehicle looked like just a collection of junk, but it does have a number of redeeming features, in that some parts that would normally be difficult to find, were present and part of the sale. For example: Pintle assembly, Very good spare wheel carrier, tool box (not perfect but very restorable), wheel hub nut removal tool (and others as well), Near perfect grille and of course the door top canvases that were a good starting point for patterns.

When I started this rebuild, I had intended to return everything to original specifications, but over time it became apparent that this would greatly delay many stages of the process. In some instances, originality was forsaken in preference of functionality and safety. E.G: Seatbelts will be installed, 12 volt electrics being considered, stone guard used in several places including inside rear lower cab panel, and of course the addition of insulation for heat and noise where possible. In other cases, this was simply a matter of convenience. Some of the fastener hardware would be a good example of that.

These changes are regretable on one level, but for longevity of the vehicle and to increase productivity (mine, not the truck) these decisions were arrived at. I would expect that the new rear chassis member will also look different to how it should, because the height of chassis rail will be increased at new location. Even though it won't be a surprise to see the finished product, it will be unfortunate to see that happen none the less. Still, at least it will be sound and presentable.

I did get the front end off last Sunday. No problems in doing so, but the very front cross member didn't want to be changed, and I still have one or two of the rivets to remove, before I can change that for a better one I have.

It came with the portion of chassis that was attached to the engine I bought about 100 years ago now. Will need to swap the nose panel attachment point, because the good member has the bad point, and the bad member has the good point (well better, at least). Doesn't the chassis look ridiculous with the smaller diameter wheels and axle on front!

As you can see from the photos, steering is off, as is the steering box mount itself. Next week, the plan is to go get the second axle that will replace the rear end, and swap them over on Sunday. I'll finish getting the front cross member off also. The 'new' one will be bolted in place to keep as much of the chassis strength while it is being transported, in several weeks time.

Still not found the chassis number anywhere, and I have been looking!

[Tony Wheeler]

Hi Tony,

Good to hear you have a pintle hook assy, they can be hard to come by. So many blitz wrecks have had the rear chassis chopped off, a lot of them have gone for scrap. Likewise the rear fairlead assy on winch trucks. As you say there were some very handy parts with that chassis you bought. Spare wheel carrier and tool box were especially good pick ups.

I agree with you re originality, particularly in this case, where the chassis has already been irreversibly modified. But with the chassis plates and pintle hook assy in place it will be very hard to pick, so it's hardly worth worrying about hole patterns in the rear crossmember. There's not much point drilling holes if there's nothing to put in them!

On the general question of originality, I think it all comes down to how the vehicle will be used. If it's a "museum piece" which only gets driven to MV events, then originality is the whole purpose. But if it's a "daily drive" blitz, then comfort, safety, and performance on the road are more important. Why not make a few improvements in these areas, if it can be done unobtrusively like the ones you mention. They can always be reversed later on if some future owner wishes (I'm conscious these vehicles will outlast us by a long way!) Therefore to my way of thinking, these kind of improvements don't detract from the basic integrity of a blitz.

On the "improvement" of 12V conversion, I personally don't see the point, except perhaps for headlights if you plan to do a lot of night driving. And maybe wipers in heavy rain. Other than that, why go to all the trouble and expense of fitting an alternator (or rewinding your genny if you want to look original) and changing your regulator and getting all your gauges recalibrated? Is there some reason I'm missing here?

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Doesn't the chassis look ridiculous with the smaller diameter wheels and axle on front!

Yes, but not as ridiculous as a gun tractor with 6" chromies!

[Private_collector]

12 volt decision chosen for several reasons.

Night driving was certainly a factor, as was ease of finding a jump start or auto battery if needed quickly or in remote location where minimal choice may be on offer. I will also want to be able to use 12v tyre pump if situation arises. I do have a gearbox mounted pump, but that mat not turn out to be usable, practical or indeed reliable. I also expect to be running a solid state ignition system.

Not sure if I will get 12v generator or change for an alternator, which will (I have been told) remove need for using the regulator at all!

Instruments can run through a voltage reducer on the circuits, either individually or there are devices available that can reduce a number of circuits together. In that situation, I don't believe instruments will need to be recalibrated. At least this is the advice of my auto electritian.

Finally, for times when the vehicle is on public viewing, I will be mounting a 12v MP3 player circuit, hidden in lower section of the tool box, that will play some of the WW2 news and music. Speakers are to be hidden in an inconspicuous location beneath the truck cab or possibly under rear body.

Windscreen wipers are not a consideration because I will continue to run with the vacuum driven ones. They are an item that will be seen, so they will remain original in appearance. In fact, I just received the new wiper blades this evening, so wiper arms and the metal of the blades will be sandblasted on Sunday, in preparation for painting in the final color.

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Yes, but not as ridiculous as a gun tractor with 6" chromies!

Tony, is that a CMP part being transported BY sitting on a trailer, or is it PART of the trailer permanently?

It looks a little like a float for a square horse!

But I do agree that the alloy wheels don't do much for it's image

[hrpearce]

Tony I used an alternator to get 12v to run my spray rig and you are right you don't need a regulator, and if you add a resister ( the white bar in the exciter wire ) you dont have to add a red light either.

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

Tony I used an alternator to get 12v to run my spray rig and you are right you don't need a regulator, and if you add a resister ( the white bar in the exciter wire ) you dont have to add a red light either.

Robert, I don't understand about 'red light'. I once had a friend that visited a 'red light' area, but I suspect thats different

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Robert, I don't understand about 'red light'. I once had a friend that visited a 'red light' area, but I suspect thats different

Hay street Kalgoorlie? My blitz didn't have a red light on the dash that comes on with the ignition and goer out when the engine is running and the generator / alternator is charging. So instead of adding a light to the dash I added a resistor to the alternator exciter wire.

[Private_collector]

Ok, thanks, now I get it.

P.S: It may have been Kalgoorlie, my friend was a 'minor' at the time.

Sorry. Couldn't resist.

It could be worse. I hear the "God Particle" jokes have already started!

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I do have a gearbox mounted pump, but that mat not turn out to be usable, practical or indeed reliable.

Oh ye of little faith! Have not these pumps proved themselves in wartime?!

Personally I'd sooner rely on a military spec blitz pump than a Taiwanese plastic one! Unlike electric pumps which can always burn out, they're extremely simple and robust. I doubt you could break one, even if you over-revved it. They can sound a bit rattly though, so you may want to rebush the conrod if it's a bit sloppy. You can even rebore the cylinder if necessary, I have some NOS pistons and piston pins, 20 thou oversize. Let me know if you need one and I'll stick it in the post. I haven't looked for new rings yet but they shouldn't be too hard to source. I'll start with motor mower shops!

The only criticism I've heard of these pumps is that they can empty the oil out of your gearbox. I don't really see how, unless perhaps they pressurize the gearbox somehow, eg. excessive blowby past badly worn rings. Like anything on a blitz, I take the view that if it's in good condition, it won't give trouble. Like I say, "proven in war". Not to mention sawmills!

I agree however that we do need 12V to run various accessories occasionally. But rather than convert the whole vehicle permanently to 12V, you can run the accessories off a converter, like the one in the pic below. More info here: http://community.pressenter.net/~cmeyer/MES612PG6A.html

These gadgets only put out 6 amps, but if you need more you can easily hide a 12V battery somewhere, like in the tool box as you say. The converter will keep it charged as you drive. You can even run your electronic ignition off it, and probably get a few hours of 12 volt headlight use as well. If you want indefinite headlight use, just fit two converters! That will give you 144 watts of power without draining the battery.

You can also use the 12V battery as an emergency back up for starting the motor. You may need an isolation switch in the 6V charging circuit, so you don't burn out the genny and/or voltage regulator. And possibly an auxiliary 12V solenoid, just to be fully confident.

To me that's preferable to converting the whole vehicle permanently to 12V. In effect, you have a dual voltage blitz, and you avoid having to: a) rewind the genny armature and field coils and replace the voltage regulator, OR fit an alternator and figure out how to run a belt to it and relocate the twin-belt fan pulley and find suitable length belts to fit; and b) recalibrate all your gauges.

I believe the gauges do have to be recalibrated individually, because they all draw different currents, and the currents are all variable. Unlike a light globe which draws a constant current, you can't simply stick a resistor in series, you need a voltage regulator as well. I'm not sure it's something an auto elec normally does, I think it's more a specialist job for an instrument maker. I think they generally pull the gauge apart and solder an appropriate resistor in series, and a little solid state voltage regulator as well. There may be ways of doing it externally but it's still a specialist job. That is, if you want your instruments to read correctly and not burn out!

Others may have better advice than me on the pros and cons of 12V conversion, since I've never actually done it myself. I see it as something to avoid if possible. One thing I particularly like about 6V is the sound of a flathead cranking over on the starter. To me it's part of the charm of an old vehicle. With 12V they spin too fast, which makes them sound just like a modern car.

[Mike K]

From memory Ford use a bimetal arm and contact points in their gauges .. Fuel Oil Temp. The Ammeter measures Amps, not Volts, it doesn't need changing , it will work fine on either 6 or 12 V systems .

With the points closed current would heat up the bimetal arm , it would then bend and alter the points gap thus affecting current flow . There are points at each end ie the sender unit and the dash gauge itself .

Fitting a 6 Volt regulator to power the instruments is cheap and simple .... most electronic shops will sell one for less than 5 bucks , you need to mount them on a heat sink and use caps to filter any spikes . The TO3 case can handle 5 amps I think ...

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/article.php?id=040

This is a well written article ... step by step . Print it out and take it to any electronics shop to buy the components .. solder it together and away you go ...cheap as chips


MIKE

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

It looks a little like a float for a square horse!

I'm thinking Caravans, Aust pattern 9. Keith suggested I tow it to MV events and sleep in it!

It's actually just cradled on the trailer axle, which I picked it up on ebay for $30, complete with chromies and springs! It just happened to fit perfectly, and it's almost exactly under the centre of gravity! I reckon with a couple of bolts and a bit of flooring, I might even get it registered!

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

This is a well written article ... step by step . Print it out and take it to any electronics shop to buy the components .. solder it together and away you go ...cheap as chips

It's certainly a good article Mike, even I can understand it! And it certainly solves the gauge problem very cheaply, without having to modify the actual gauges. I figured there might be an external solution of some kind. In fact, reading this article it seems like the only way, because of the heat sink requirement.

I'm still not sure I see the point of the exercise though. The gauges work perfectly well on 6V, just like everything else on a blitz, except the headlights. Is it really worth doing all this work on the gauge circuits, plus fitting an alternator and a separate belt system to drive it, just to have brighter headlights? Wouldn't it be simpler to just stick in a couple of 60W halogen globes? That's more than enough headlight power for something that never gets over 45 mph. Besides, how many owners drive their CMPs at night anyway?

Likewise for occasional accessories, there's no need to go to all this trouble. You can either carry a 12V battery, charged through a converter, or carry a spare 6V battery, charged by the genny, and hook it up in series when you want to run 12V accessories. I'll probably go the latter route, just to have a spare battery on hand.

I can understand objections to 6V amongst hotrodders, who need 12V to crank over their high comp flatheads, and run their high performance ignition systems, but none of this applies for blitz owners. Unless of course you're building a blitz hotrod! Come to think of it, not such a bad idea! I'm picturing blitz drags down the main street of Corowa...

[Private_collector]

I knew it! I knew it!

I was afraid the 12v VS 6v debate would cause a reaction.

How about if I keep an open mind for now? There is still a long time until I must address this in a permanent way.

[lynx42]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Come to think of it, not such a bad idea! I'm picturing blitz drags down the main street of Corowa...

Tony don't start that one again. We had a jet powered blitz stir up the town a few Corowa's ago. Took a fair bit of talking to get things straightened out. Many of the towns people thought a jet had crashed in the town. The boys in blue came from as far away as Albury to investigate.

Regards Rick.

[Keith Webb]

That was one of the scariest contraptions I've ever seen... but it made for great video which can be seen on the Year of DVD. I remember him saying it was nice and smooth until you backed off the power and it wanted to go all over the place. Poor thing was a F15 with a Holden front end.
The most controversial bit was when he fired it up in the carpark at night.
His other vehicle was a similarly modified motorcycle. As a friend commented: "I wouldn't like to be riding with a time expired Rolls-Royce Viper between my legs when it started throwing turbine blades."

Originally Posted by lynx42

Tony don't start that one again. We had a jet powered blitz stir up the town a few Corowa's ago. Took a fair bit of talking to get things straightened out. Many of the towns people thought a jet had crashed in the town. The boys in blue came from as far away as Albury to investigate.

Regards Rick.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

How about if I keep an open mind for now? There is still a long time until I must address this in a permanent way.

Tony, don't take too much notice of my midnight ramblings about 6V versus 12V. It's your blitz, you do exactly what you bloody well want with it! I'm really just sticking up a bit for the poor old much maligned 6V blitz system. It happens to be my personal preference, but that doesn't make it right for everyone.

Fortunately these debates generally aren't entirely fruitless, in this case Mike's article about gauge conversion is a particularly useful resource I reckon.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by lynx42

We had a jet powered blitz stir up the town a few Corowa's ago.

I hadn't heard about that Rick, that's just INSANE !! I must get a look at Keith's footage.

I don't think we have to worry too much about blitz hotrods though, a 4 ton hotrod is something of a contradiction.

[Keith Webb]

Not one with 2,700 pounds of thrust at 13,800 RPM PLUS a home made afterburner~

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

I hadn't heard about that Rick, that's just INSANE !! I must get a look at Keith's footage.

I don't think we have to worry too much about blitz hotrods though, a 4 ton hotrod is something of a contradiction.

[Private_collector]

I recall someone saying he was not far from where I am.

His name is Ron Laycock, if I remember correctly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gocatters/4445705485/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-hEyybOUsw

[Private_collector]

Still working on the chassis. Nothing worthy of photographing today. All photos shown now are old ones.

I Removed the front cross member....carefully, and made the 'new' one ready to go on.


Then tidied one of the chassis rails at the very back , where previous owner/s had done some bodgy work by modifying the rear 14in of each rail.............by turning them into a fully enclosed bux section for that length. Couldn't tell you why. I'm absolutely stumped. Why would someone vandalise a perfectly good truck chassis by doing this to it!

It took several hours of very careful, almost surgical grinding (contradiction of terms?) to undo all that shanagans! Next weekend I buy another bunch of cutting & grinding wheels, and do the other side. Better buy a set of ear muffs too. I presently have a ringing in the ears that resembles the old ABC TV test panel. The sound that was left when they switched off transmission late at night. Ah, the good old days!

The pointless mod included adding a piece of steel plate on outside of each rail, at rear. This piece of plate extends roughly 12in, and is brought to a taper towards the front of the piece. In fact the taper looks like a boats bow. I would understand doing this if there was some diabolical damage to the rails that needed drastic work to repair, but far from damaged, the rails are PERFECT. At least at that part anyway. There is some VERY minor repair work needed to the passenger side rail, where there is a crack on the underside, eminating from a bolt hole. This had already been 'fixed' but I will grind the weld out of the area and the engineers will fix this properly!

As a parting gesture, nearly a gallon of degreaser was sprayed on the front 3/4 of the chassis, in several applications, with a hearty water blasting between the coats. Now very little grime buildup anywhere on the chassis. The sandblaster (Shane) will be very greatful for this, as will I, because the more I get off, the better the blasting job will be.

You don't make a friend if you send something for blasting coated in excess (or any) grease, oil, rust scale or caked on and time hardened dirt. They won't put in the extra hours needed to remove this with the grit, so you will get the part back beautifully primed......... ............with the gunk still in places that were too hard to reach thoroughly.

Alternatively, you will get an immaculate part back, with a $$$ bill that would send you broke in one foul swoop!

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

previous owner/s had done some bodgy work by modifying the rear 14in of each rail.............by turning them into a fully enclosed bux section for that length. The pointless mod included adding a piece of steel plate on outside of each rail, at rear. This piece of plate extends roughly 12in, and is brought to a taper towards the front of the piece. In fact the taper looks like a boats bow.

It's only a wild guess, but maybe the original F60L chassis got bent like my old one (see pics) so they chopped it off at that point and butt welded a new length of channel on, then reinforced it with plate on the inside (making it box section) and welded a "band aid" patch over the join on the outside. Then, at some later date, a subsequent owner chopped it off at the join and shortened the wheelbase.

I'm told the tapered "band aid" patch is the correct way to reinforce a join, because it distributes the stresses more evenly. The RAAF used a boat shaped band aid patch on their lengthened F60L chassis.

That's about the only explanation I can think of for there being reinforcement on both the outside and the inside.

Whatever the case, they've certainly made a lot of extra work for you!

[Private_collector]

Tony,

I don't mind the extra chassis repair work. It's half done now, and will be finished next weekend, as always, weather permitting.

The patches had to come off, or I wouldn't have been able to fit the pintle system correctly. The added plates on outside of the rails would have resulted in pintle attachment brackets sitting too far apart, and I think the spring bit would have been able to slop from side to side.

The only real handicap this remedy has inflicted is the cost of the cutting & grinding discs. And even thats just a tener!

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Tony, I don't mind the extra chassis repair work.

Yes I'm a bit the same myself. I loathe panel repair work but I enjoy structural repair work. I'm quite looking forward to the rear chassis work on my FGT. Likewise this F15A chassis which also has some rear chassis damage.

[Private_collector]

Looks like you need a rear cross member too.

Won't you want a set of those plates you sent me, for this truck?

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Won't you want a set of those plates you sent me, for this truck?

The FGT chassis doesn't use those plates so if I convert this damaged F15A chassis to a FGT then I won't need any. However I'm hoping to buy this pristine F15A chassis to convert to FGT (see pic) in which case I can use the chassis plates off it to repair the damaged F15A chassis. Complicated isn't it!

[Private_collector]

Some of you may recall a while ago, that I was considering placing a 40mm Gun on the rear of my truck. From line drawings and B&W photos, it wouldn't be difficult to manufacture the basic components, then cover breech mech & muzzle with purpose made canvas covers.

The largest hurdle is how to get the opportunity to see, photograph and measure a genuine specimen. I have a few reproduced manuals, and more PDF resources, but REALLY wanted to be able to walk up to a real 40mm and capture the finer details for reproduction. All this AFTER I finish the CMP of course (so it will be at least 2121!)

Today, I made a fortunate discovery. In my work I travel a reasonable number of miles each day. Some days more than others, but usually in the same general areas, so I know these places reasonably well.........or so I thought! Well, today I went a slightly different route to visit a patient and came face to face with a complete 40mm BOFORS sitting on its original four wheeled platform. It was standing proudly in what is effectively an odd shaped roundabout, surrounded on all sides by thoroughfares. It is not fenced, has not been dismantled or greatly vandalised and will be the perfect subject for detailed inspection & photography.

I suspect this relic is the property of either the local RSL or council, and I will start to make enquiries next week, to gain permission to allow my close attention without incurring wrath from owners. The local police station sits in clear view of the gun, and i'm sure they would rather I had permission to 'play' on this little gem too!

Will post a couple of photos when I can.

[Keith Webb]

... is a working pintle hook on your Ford I think.