Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Mike K]

Tony

I rang the Protec Dandenong branch. The chap there said he would sell me ADF 601 no problem. He knew that particluar paint and he said they had some in stock . I dont know why you are getting the royal run around ..

Try another branch in QLD maybe

Mike

[Private_collector]

Mke,

Today's episode was more lack of information on hand, rather that bugger off & don't bother me. They will check on the ADF stuff on Monday. They did try to contact Protec while I was there, but no answer. The two ladies that run the local shop really do put a lot of effort into trying to help. I found that out for sure today.

I hope 601 formulas are same as 324 I got today, but in case they are not, i'm prepared for that too. If tomorrows trial of 324 is successful and I like the color and finish, I may continue to use it for certain parts.

[Andy Cusworth]

if you can locate what you want around Brisbane area let me know and I can cvollect it for you, i use Peninsula Paints in Redcliffe and they do a fair bit of military paint if you wanted to give them a call.

[Private_collector]

Andy,

Peninsula Paints are a real blast from the past for me.

I can't believe they are still going strong. When I was a painter, all of our paint supplies came from them. That's early eighties. Are they still on Anzac Avenue, Kippa Ring, on left side as heading towards water?

Thanks for the offer, but should not need alternative to my local, if all goes as it should.

[Andy Cusworth]

still in the same place, very helpful too !

[Private_collector]

Firstly, the paint I was calling '324' is actually 342. So what, right?
Well, I'll need to know this because I will be ordering lots more of the same!

As with the previous Protec paint I tried, this one too is very easy to spray, but when they say "light" first coat, you better listen. I deliberately tried an area too wet first coat & had to pick it up off the floor, well nearly.

The finish 'off the gun' is first rate when instructions are followed. Giving good flow and high coverage. I gave 3 coats in total. It is possible to get too much orange peel, but subsequent coat/s can fix this if noticed early enough. The level of gloss is just perfect for what I am wanting, WITHOUT ADDING FLATTENING BASE! I did include hardener, and noted that paint was tack free in 10-20 minutes. It was able to take a hard press from my hand after 90 minutes without marking.

Despite covering really well, the enamel paint did not fill imperfections, but that also meant that wheel markings are still easily readable.

I did the painting out in the open, and today was windy, but for some unknown reason there is less dust in these wheels than I expected. I have had much more s%&t in paint when spraying in a booth! Fact that it's 'lustreless' helps hide it too. Use of a tack rag didn't hurt either.

[Andy Cusworth]

they look good Tony ...... tyres mounted next mate !

[warren brown]

Tony - this looks great! You've done the hard yards with this - and it's been really interesting and educational following the experience(s) you and Bob have had. I'm about to repaint my Blitz again - (I did it last year with OD I had in bulk and while it looks fine - I'd rather khaki) but I'm really, really impressed with the colour and finish you've achieved. I'm lucky - the Protec guy here in Sydney is a great bloke and only down the road - I'm going to follow your advice and paint my truck in the same colour. Many thanks to you and Bob. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

[Andy Cusworth]

Tony, as an ex painter you will prob know this but I asked the Peninsula paint boys how best to keep paint leftovers or like us remaining paint as we paint bits and bobs as we go, he said the main thing is keep air to a minimum in the container so as the paint is used keep the remainder in a smaller container and smaller as the paint quantity diminishes....... learn something new every day !

[Private_collector]

Warren,

I think you will be quite satisfied with this paint. It was great to use, and if you do get it for your truck, be sure to post photos for us. I will be popping into my local paint shop some time next week to place an order for another 4lt. Thankyou for your kind words & here's the full set of products I used:


Andy,

I gave leftover paint to the customer, but if I were hanging onto it I would use original container, knock lid on firmly, and then invert the can for a few moments. This would be done several times in consecutive days. That formed a small film of paint in the lid grooves which sealed the can. Air inside would become so saturated by paint fumes it didn't cause a problem. More effective with 2 pack & enamel as opposed to acrylic. But, that was paint of 20+ years ago. Don't know about now. Also, be aware that once hardener is mixed, that paint is doomed to be a solid jell mass within 12hrs (ish). That's why painters quite use seperate mixing pots & not the original can even if there is space!

[Private_collector]

I bought this "Service Bulletins, Mechanical" manual on ebay recently. Covers 1939-1949 & lots of DND stuff inside. Nice embossed cover with metal edging for protection.



Auction listing stated expected "serious bidding on this item". This should have actually been the case too, but NOBODY BID but me.

[Keith Webb]

Nice buy Tony!

[c dressel]

Wonderful find Tony, great shape

[Andy Cusworth]

Hey Tony,

did you pick up your replacement engine today ?

[Private_collector]

Things did NOT go as planned today.

The engine I had expected to bring home turned out to be incompatable with the Blitz. Seller steadfastly stated the heads with water outlet at front would be easily replaced with the type I needed, having outlet at top middle. Some quick inspection showed this was simply untrue. The heads as they were, are designed for water pump to bolt onto head NOT block as needed.

I had to virtually prove this was the case, with the seller asserting he knew better. Must have felt pretty foolish when I challenged him to show me where the 'correct' water pump would bolt onto the block!!!!!

He even tried to tell me that the block could be drilled & threads tapped to make the water pump fit correctly. Would take a BLOODY BIG hole for the impeller to fit through.

Honestly..........!?!?!?

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Tony - there is a possibility I may be able to get my hands on two or three flatheads in the near future. I haven't had a good look at them yet but they could be good candidates for rebuilding. I will keep you posted.

Bob

[Private_collector]

Bob,

Thankyou!

You will make both my Christmas list & Last Will if you find something suitable.

I'm off to town now, for a bearing puller. I can't seem to get rear hub out of axle. Axle shaft is out, as is the cone bearing race, but not inner cone. Looking though the manual, I don't understand how this may prevent hub removal, but since it says remove it.......i'll remove it!

Hub can move in/out about 1/8in but no further. Made makeshift hub puller from chain/dog attached to the axle bolt round plate & attached it to pull with tightening the 'dog' but no good & i'm not prepared to put great force onto it. Hub seems to strike something inside after the 1/8in movement.

Enough grease inside there to choke a donkey & I can't get a good look in there.

If at first you don't succeed, read another manual!!!!

[Andy Cusworth]

sorry to hear about the engine Tony, at least you knew what you were looking at before you parted with cash and took it home.
If Bob can't help maybe Wayne or Dean can,

now if you had a good ol Chev you would not have this sourcing problem

[Private_collector]

In stark contrast to yesterday, I managed to get a little done by nightfall.

What I had initially believed to be an internal 'bearing' part stopping me from getting the hub off, actually turned out to be extreme gunk of 70 year old grease, dirt & ....well...god knows what. So caked was the brake shoes that it's hard to see how thick they are without all the 'lava' attached. Disgusting stuff. Thank Jehova for parts washers, where the bits will be resting until I can scrape the krudd off (K. Rudd, get it?).

Forgot to take a photo of the outer bearing components, which are in quite good condition. Bearings will both be OK to re-use, though lock nuts show evidence of treatment from someone who I wager didn't have the correct size tool to undo them & used a flat instrument against the nut to bash loose. Fortunately, I DO have the right tool, so no further damage today!

Spindle is smooth, and no defects found. I will know more once I wipe the excess grease off properly. Axle shaft OK also.

In this photo, the brake drum has already been treated to an intial clean. It took around 45min of cleaning to get to this stage. In places, gunk was 1/2in thick!
I thought wheels were heavy, but a greasy brake drum is even bloody worse. I'm feeling it in the back already. Even when I finish this side, there's still the other side to do.

Oh, Andy, Chevs are OK I guess............if you can't find a Ford!
Aren't you lucky Chev used some Ford parts? Don't think Ford ever needed to resort to Chev parts though. You cheeky bugger!

[cliff]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Oh, Andy, Chevs are OK I guess............if you can't find a Ford!
Aren't you lucky Chev used some Ford parts? Don't think Ford ever needed to resort to Chev parts though. You cheeky bugger!

Sorry Tony you are wrong. Very early cab 11 Fords had Chev axles until Ford could work out the faults in their own!

[Private_collector]

Cliff,

Trust you!

To be honest, if I had bought Chevrolets instead of Fords, I would be spruking their virtues instead. One in, all in, for the purpose they were intended.

Don't think my Dad had a preference for one over the other. By the time I got around to making serious effort to look for one to restore, Dad had passed away & opportunity to discuss these wonderful vehicles was permanently lost. Sad on many levels!


These 2 photos show the extremes of age & health of the man my restoration is in memory of!


That's Dad standing with his arms in the air.
Photo taken on the day the end of WW2 was announced by P.M Chifley.

[Andy Cusworth]

Great pics of your Dad Tony !

im sure h would have loved your trucks and the quality of work you are doing to bring them back to their former glory

[Keith Webb]

Nice to see pics of your dad.

And what's that in the background of the third picture? Could it be a CMP?

[Private_collector]

Drove to see a fellow who has a number of bits which I need, including engines.
No engines rebuilt but may easy runners with minimal work needed.
An engine would cost me $1000, but includes gearbox, carb & filters (air and oil), distributor, generator, starter and spark lead piping. At present, this is above the amount I can budget for, so I will continue to look around.

One engine has been removed from vehicle by cutting chassis fore & aft. This one has the brake booster on the chassis bit still. Can anyone advise what prices Bendix brake boosters have been bought for?

The major coup of the day was this set of seat upholstery, which I have now started to clean up. Seat bases will be sent to blaster on Mon or Tues & I should have them back by the weeekend. I have put the nose panel in for blasting last week & this is now ready for pickup. Nose will definately require some metal work, including plating of 2x holes, one each side where I suspect non original turn signal lights were wired or bolted.

I also bought some seat springs & rings, repairable left side guard, another cab step with brackets & was given a good speedo cable.

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Tony - as stated earlier I could be able to help you out. At the moment I am working on a couple of contingencies that hopefully will be resolved within the next couple of weeks. If you can just hold off doing any other major work for this time I will be able to let you know what I can offer. Sorry I can't be any clearer at the moment but I find if I pre-emt something it can go pear shaped.

Bob

[Private_collector]

Cheers Bob,

(or 'international man of mystery')

I will wait until I hear from you.

I've got plenty to go on with for a while.

Looking forward to seeing the seats finished. As Andy C. & I were discussing today, seeing something completed is our 'small win'. even though it may be somewhat off at a tangent from the big picture.

[Private_collector]

I have received two interesting books this week.

Notice this is pamphlet No. 1 Mechani'z'ation???
Interesting book, but has little in the way of pictures. Mostly relating to basics of vehicle running and light maintenance. Some good pics of the V8 engine & associated bits though. Has anyone seen one of these books before? It's a new one for me!

This is the other & far more interesting one. Not directly related to any one type of vehicle but a real eye opener to read.

I suspect they may be a tad optomistic with their expectations for repair of this vehicle!!!!
Was it that ugly before the accident? I suspect it may have been.

See more interesting pictures from this book in next posting.

[Private_collector]

Good to see some body repair tools have not changed over the decades.

On the other hand, we have moved on a bit with these....er.....hand tools.

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 43416
Good to see some body repair tools have not changed over the decades.
Attachment 43417 Attachment 43418 Attachment 43419 Attachment 43420
On the other hand, we have moved on a bit with these....er.....hand tools.

Well found. The mechanization booklet is a good find.

[cliff]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

This is the other & far more interesting one. Not directly related to any one type of vehicle but a real eye opener to read.
Attachment 43415
I suspect they may be a tad optomistic with their expectations for repair of this vehicle!!!!
Was it that ugly before the accident? I suspect it may have been.

Chysler Airflow. In the 1930's these were light years ahead of their time in design and almost sent Chysler bankrupt. Mosr were powered by a straight 8 motor.

Thanks for sharing